first site was temple of artemis. one of the seven wonders of the world. one column still standing. of note: nat (our tour guide) felt up the bull on the site, exclaiming ‘he likes it!’ u never really expect to see your tour guide rubbing a bull’s balls. went on to house of virgin mary, then Ephesus: very well-preserved and most impressive, could do without the tourists though. after that, church of st mary (largest baptistry).
lunch. had moussaka (cold eggplant) and cheese rolls. ended up splitting bill evenly (300,000 each). Iv was apparently reluctant to share his shish kebab at the T/S end of the table.
museum of Ephesus. really tacky postcard of artemis with a whole bunch of babies crawling around, with milk squirting from her breasts, as good as clytemnestra’s death scene. got brought to this avarlya(?) leather place where a fashion show was put on for us and we were served apple tea (good). found it most amusing. in the store, Mo tried on a blue vest and black skirt. interesting, but not quite her. surprised to find out that her boyfriend is Taiwanese (but grew up in the states). way back, nat was teaching us some Turkish, but not the phrases we wanted to learn. ‘no, not without a condom.’ ‘no, I don’t want a camel either.’ (‘no, I was not looking at your wife.’ did I make this up in retrospect?) he also sang ‘u are my sunshine’ and ‘roses are red.’ turks are very entertaining. ‘shoe shine half price. body shine free!’ then there was this ice-cream vendor (to Mo) ‘psst! beautiful girl’ when Al or Ls walked by.
nap. lecture at 6. nap. after dinner, took taxi/bus downtown with R, T, Se, S, M and Iv. walked around a little, it’s really neat. finally found pub lane with about 20 pubs, each blasting its music. people dancing in front, trying to get you into their pubs. went to irish pub, got a b-52, nice enough. thumping british dance music. see people dancing in pub across the alley. group dancing was really fun to watch ‘Saturday nite.’ went to a jazz bar after that. interior courtyard, 2 walls of stone, 2 walls whitewashed. low wicker tables and chairs with couches along the side. one tree with its foliage covering the area, could see the night sky through the leaves. live jazz, real soothing. there was this 60 plus male vocalist doing body and soul(?). that was great. Iv left at abt 12. ‘should be getting back and get some sleep.’ he went alone. we left at abt 1, walked back (45 min). spent 320, 000 on drinks in all.