karakoram highway: karakuri lake, tashkurgan.
upal was about an hour away from the city and the last-chance stop for food and supplies. breakfast for 4 came to 22 for 3 bowls of rice/noodles.
came upon a checkpoint where our particulars were taken down by a man in uniform. at karakuri lake, we avoided the official collection point (50 a head). took in the snow-capped peaks, water of shades of blue and green, goats grazing on the grass at a leisurely pace. this beat tianchi hands down. best of all, the tourists were all at the designated area. also happy that it was cold enough to use the jacket i had lugged along.
invited into kirghiz woman’s yurt and served chai and naan. the chai was supposed to help alleviate altitude sickness but i never got used to the taste. the woman’s 6 year old boy was with her and it was a sight to watch him ride a full-sized bicycle. the yurt was temporary accommodation and they moved 3-4 times a year. L bought a pillow case (red stitch-work on black cloth) for 50 from her. arken gave her some of the melons and food that he had brought from the city.
not long after, arken stopped to help a fellow uighur driver having car trouble. turned out to be a 2 hour wait.
reached tashkurgan and arken brought us to traffic hotel, which was next to the bus station. doubles with attached bathroom for 120 or bed in dingy-looking 4-person room for 10. the choice was clear.
stone city site (with archaeological remains dating back to the Tang dynasty) was near to the hotel. provided dramatic views of the surrounding grass plains and mountains. the gorgeous play of light and shadows on the landscape was transfixing. L and i stayed for a while in the evening sun as the cold and desolate wind lashed around us.
dinner was huimen and meat skewers, came to 25 for 4.
at last, a hot shower with adequate water. most excellent. slight headache from the altitude (3200 feet) but slept well.