only set off for siena at 11. sun was finally out today. W was in skimpy shorts until the possibility of being rejected entry at lunch prompted a round of clothing changes.
lunch at 1 star Michelin restaurant near siena, attica trattoria botteganova.
it started with bread: studded with olives, poppy seeds, oregano, sundried tomatoes and anchovies (best of the lot), onions. well, the coperto was a hefty 5 a head. all 5 of us took the mixed degustazione menu at the chef’s suggestion (who was quite intimidating actually): 2 antipasti (octopus salad, veal tartare), 2 first plates tagliatelle with squid, lemon and paprika (which tasted asian, specifically hokkien mee) and tortelli of ewe’s cheese in cheese sauce – pasta stuffed with cheese and drenched in cheese sounded like overkill but was a surprisingly pleasant proposition, though a half-portion would have sufficed. for the second plate, picked the guinea fowl which was tender and tasty, paired with very salty mushrooms and bitter vegetables.
everyone was struggling by the second plate (glad i didn't order the humongous portion of saddleback), but managed to order 2 desserts to share. the chocolate tart was excellent while the tiramisu was good too. finished with coffee. total of 306. the piped-in music was incongruous – muzak version of classical pieces. other patrons mostly in suits except for an old man, his daughter and granddaughter who were more casually dressed.
stuffed and sleepy, dragged ourselves to the duomo. unfortunately, the façade was being restored. the black and white colour scheme was by now familiar. highlight was supposed to be pisano’s pulpit, with the madonna ‘whose breast is visible underneath the cloak for the first time in italy.’ we failed to locate said boob. also, pinturicchio’s frescoes of pius II in the libreria piccolomini.
the scallop-shaped piazza il campo, hyped as ‘the loveliest of all italian public squares’ did not disappoint. the unusual shape and slope of the piazza was dominated by the 97m torre del manja, 503 steps, €6. E and D skipped this, and along with A, the museo civico (7), primarily for simone martin’s maesta, ‘one of the greatest of all Italian frescoes’ and ambrogio lorenzetti’s allegories of good and bad government.
decided that RG strikes a good balance between write-ups on attractions and practical information. LP has good maps but spotty write-ups, while Frommer’s tended to be more high-end on the practical information.
gelato again: strawberry and chocolate. former not as flavourful but still good.
D got carsick on the way back but managed to last the journey. instant noodles for dinner. split packet of nongshim with D. didn’t manage either bridge or tabu. we were wiped.