Tuesday, January 13, 2009

It should really be called the Blue Dissected Plateau. “But that does not quite have the same ring as the Blue Mountains, does it?” asks Mr Tim Tranter, owner-operator of Tread Lightly Eco Tours (http://www.treadlightly.com.au/).
Located 90 minutes from Sydney by car, the Blue Mountains World Heritage National Park is a sprawling 2,500 sq km of forested valleys, sheer cliffs and plunging waterfalls.For those who have been to Sydney and think of it as an urban, coastal cityscape, the proximity of the mountains is a lovely surprise.
And the best way to learn about it is to sign up for a fully guided bush walk conducted by someone such as Mr Tranter, who has lived in the area for more than 40 years, served as a fire and rescue team member, and saves trapped snakes in his spare time.
The name of his company, Tread Lightly, reflects the philosophy of its tours:to leave a minimal imprint on nature through the use of eco-friendly resources. His four-wheel drive runs on liquefied petroleum gas and he wants to convert it to operate on natural gas, which pollutes even less.
Given his background and his love of the place, he is a fount of information.
The area is called Blue Mountains because the light refracted through the oil released by the eucalyptus or gum trees, makes the haze look blue from a distance.
That, however, is possibly the least fascinating aspect of the area’s ecology. It seems things are done differently Down Under, even when it concerns nature.
Fires are often seen as a destructive force but the frequency of their occurrence here has contributed to some unusual flora. The banksia plant, for instance, actually needs fire for its seedpods to burst open and scatter the seeds inside.
As we drive down a track through the bush, Mr Tranter grabs a leaf off a branch, crushes it and passes it to me. “Here, smell this,” he says. The oil in the eucalyptus leaves fuels the fire so that it burns faster, thus sparing the trunks from combusting.
He also points out edible shoots, leaves and fruits from what, to the undiscerning eye, looks like a big patch of green. “These shoots taste like carrots,” he says encouragingly.
Maybe my taste buds are not meant to sample nature raw and unprocessed. Another berry I try is mostly just chewy in texture.
He says the cockroaches can be eaten as well because they feed on nectar instead of faeces. Good thing we do not see any running around.
Most people who come to the Blue Mountains make a beeline for the Three Sisters at Echo Point, a spectacular sandstone formation. According to an Aboriginal legend, a witch doctor turned three sisters into stone to protect them from harm but he died before he could reverse the spell.
But there are other vistas with curiously little human traffic. At Anvil Point,we are greeted by a lush and verdant view of the valley with the bonus that it is completely deserted.
If you prefer your nature in a more familiar theme park-like setting, Scenic World (www.scenicworld.com.au) is a good bet. The picturesque railway is on the world’s steepest rail incline while the cable-car ride over Jamison Valley affords a bird’s-eye view of the plunging Katoomba Falls.
There are reportedly discussions underway to build a roller-coaster ride which will hug the escarpment. It seems hard to square this with eco-protection but it does sound like a heck of a ride.
For a change of pace, mosey over to Leura Mall for some shopping for everything from beaded lamps to scented candles to all kinds of sugar rush at an old-fashioned candy store.
My favourite shop here is Cafe Josophan for its delicious homemade chocolates. Even wild cockatoos know to head here for the muffin crumbs.
After a fruitful day spent exploring and hiking, unwind at a private guesthouse such as the Silvermere (www.silvermere.com.au), originally built in 1923 and handsomely restored.
There are also various spa resorts catering to different tastes, from the five-star Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa (www.lilianfels.com.au) to the exotic Japanese bath house Blue Mountains Sparadise(http://www.japanesebathhouse.com.au/).
If you need to balance your fix of nature with the bright lights of a big city, it is comforting to know that Sydney is nearby. Even for those who have visited, this cosmopolitan metropolis still offers fresh things to discover with new restaurants and nightspots constantly sprouting up.
See the city from a different perspective, on a motorbike(www.bluethunderdownunder.com.au) with Steve White, your friendly leather-wearing, Harley- revving guide.Granted it is a little difficult to keep up with the guide’s running commentary when you are riding pillion but you do get personally chauffeured to little-known viewing spots which offer uncluttered views of the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
The monikers of these iconic structures might seem a little prosaic but then, what’s in a name right?

Getting there
Singapore Airlines, Qantas and British Airways fly direct to Sydney daily. The flight is about seven hours long.
The Blue Mountains are about an hour to 90 minutes away from Sydney by car. Another option is to travel by train from Sydney’s Central Railway Station. The journey can take from one to two hours, depending on your exact destination.

5 things to do
1 Do pack warm clothes, even when travelling in summer, as it can get chilly in the mountains.
2 Do bond with the locals. Stop by Glenbrook, the gateway to the Blue Mountains, to view wild kangaroos, kingfishers and cockatoos.
3 Do walk on top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It can be quite “educational”. Once, a guided group – the first of the day – found an abandoned shopping cart filled with beer cans at the bridge’s highest point. They never found out who hauled it up there.
4 Do tour the Sydney Opera House and learn about the challenges in realising the audacious vision for the dramatic structure. It was designed by Danish architect Jorn Utzon, who died in November last year. Forced to resign as chief architect before the project was completed, he never saw the finished building.
5 Do hop on a boat for a sail and see Sydney from the water. There is plenty to explore given that this is the world’s largest natural harbour with over 240km of shoreline.

2 don’ts
1 Don’t forget to pack comfortable walking shoes for the hikes.
2 Don’t miss out on the diverse dining options, from the casual cafes in the warren of streets behind Bondi Beach to the hip, big-name restaurants.
(ST)