Walked to Van Mieu (Temple of Literature) after cyclo negotiations fell through. Le Duan turned out to be another excellent street to explore on foot with shops selling communist party wear and headgear, sneakers, as well as bun cha, grilled pork patties I remembered well from my previous trip.
Spent a pleasant morning at Vietnam’s first university. Spotted a photographer art directing two ao dai-clad ladies (one in green, one in red) and wondered if it was for a tourist calendar.
Lunch was at KOTO (59 Van Mieu, LP), which provides training for street kids. Tired of the no-ice/water rule and ordered the KOTO smoothie (banana, mint, passionfruit) and a ham baguette with salad, as well as coffee and carrot cake (200kd). Happy to report that there were no untoward consequences.
Followed the LP walking tour of the old quarter. Each street offered new treats for the senses, though Hang Ma stood for combining your Christmas and afterlife needs in one convenient location. Was woozy from the sights and sounds and exhaust fumes and refueled with Vietnamese tea at Moca Café (14 Pho Na Tro, LP), located on a lane of chic shopping facing St Joseph’s Cathedral.
Had street food for dinner. Spotted this set-up doing roaring business on Hang Buom, with tables lined up on both sides of the street. Had fried beef noodles, oily and yummy (15kd), and Hanoi beer (20kd). Also ate the raw cucumber (dipped in prune powder and salt) and pickled cucumber side-dish.
Came across this tiny shop (93 Hang Bac, http://www.thuyhiensilk.com/) which packed an impressive assortment of bags as well as other souvenirs. Bought two silk sleeping bags (total 160kd).
It seemed that the whole of Ha Noi was surging towards Hoan Kiem lake on Christmas Eve, and we caught glimpses of a few spurts of fireworks. Balloon-sellers stood in the middle of the street clutching their wares as the crowd thronged and swirled while on the sidewalks, peddlers sold popcorn, candy floss, grilled corn, grilled cuttlefish, fried sausages, fruit.
Had a nightcap at Latino Bar at Melia Hanoi. (US$5 for Bailey’s on the rocks.) Glad to break away from the human mass and get off the smoggy streets.