It can be tough being a fan of the hit fantasy series Game Of Thrones. The already long wait between seasons has grown only longer as schedules have been pushed back to accommodate winter shooting in European locales such as Northern Ireland and Iceland.
Well, if the show will not come to you soon enough, one option is to go to the show.
It is partly why my friends and I decided to visit Dubrovnik in Croatia. The old city is famed for its spectacular stone walls, which were built between the 7th and 17th centuries. They are 4 to 6m thick and loom impressively up to 25m high. In 1979, the old city was inscribed into the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) list of World Heritage Sites.
More importantly, Dubrovnik stands in for King’s Landing, the royal capital of Westeros and the Seven Kingdoms in Game Of Thrones. Many scenes from the show have been shot in the area and the best way to take it all in is to have a guide take one around.
Enter Ms Tonka Matana, 35, a PhD student in archaeology whose subject of research is none other than Dubrovnik.
Her more crucial credentials are that she is a huge fan of the show, has encyclopaedic knowledge of it and has even appeared in it as an extra in Season 4. Alas, she was cast as a peasant woman and only the noble folk extras got to take part in the death scene of evil King Joffrey at his wedding.
Also, her Tour The Game Of Thrones is ranked No. 2 on TripAdvisor under Tours in Dubrovnik.
She would set out a scene at length, detailing the season it was featured in, its context, the characters involved and even verbatim dialogue. Then she would flash a laminated screen capture to invite us to confirm that, yes indeed, Tyrion Lannister (Peter Dinklage) came through this archway and Sansa Stark (Sophie Turner) and Littlefinger (Aidan Gillen) shared a moment here on this ledge in Trsteno Arboretum. Caught up in the moment and encouraged by our guide, we posed for photos in merry imitation of the screengrabs. But it turns out that we were amateurs at this game.
A highlight of the tour was the Jesuit Stairs that connect Gundulic Square to the Church of St Ignatius in the old city. These grand stone steps were where Cersei Lannister started her infamous naked walk of shame (a body double stood in for actress Lena Headey).
As we gathered to take a group picture, Ms Matana said: “Oh, you’re getting photobombed. Wait, he’s taking his shirt off.”
And then we heard the lusty cries of “Shame! Shame!” as a topless man re-enacted the ritual of public humiliation.
In the show, Septa Unella does the trumpeting as she rings a bell while escorting Cersei. But instead of rotten fruit and spittle in the show, the man in real life is greeted with knowing smiles and indulgent laughter.
(ST)

India has an image problem.
When I mentioned that I was going there for a holiday, the response was often, “Really?”, followed in the same breath by “Why?”, as though I had just announced that I was going on a dumpster-diving tour.
Part of it has to do with how the country has been portrayed in popular culture, from reality television game show The Amazing Race (2001 to present) to the movie Slumdog Millionaire (2008).
In a reminder of how powerful such images can be, a friend could recall the culture shock the participants felt in season 4 of The Amazing Race in 2003. They landed at Mumbai airport to an overwhelming reception of aggressive touts and later had to deal with the human crush of overcrowded Indian trains. At one point, someone was crying and exclaiming that it was all just too much to handle.
While it is exciting and exuberant, Slumdog Millionaire is also about the less savoury aspects of Indian society, such as street children getting blinded to become more effective beggars, and the deplorable conditions of slum dwelling. In one indelible scene, a child jumps into the communal toilet pit and emerges covered in human excrement.
In some of these depictions of India seen through foreign eyes, there has almost been a fetishisation of the worst aspects of its culture and society. A paper (A Content Analysis Of The Portrayal Of India In Films Produced In The West) published in The Howard Journal of Communications in 2005 makes the point that this is not new.
In a sample of 24 randomly selected films about the country produced from 1930 to 2000 in the United States or Britain, it was found that “India was consistently portrayed as backward, uncivilised, savage and traditional”.
It added that it was “common to find portrayals of dirty roads, dusty streets, unclean waters, overflowing sewers, marshy streets and spoilt food apart from the presence of garbage, depictions of noisy locales or overcrowded places (especially bazaars, trains and stations) in scenes depicting India”.
One way of getting a more balanced view of the sub-continent is to see how it depicts itself in Indian movies, from the fantasy of Bollywood musicals to the realist works of the late feted film-maker Satyajit Ray.
A more recent example would be The Lunchbox (2013), which serves up a portrait of modern India rooted in everyday life. As a housewife’s carefully prepared lunchbox makes its way to a lonely widower by mistake, via the feat of logistical wonder that is the food delivery system in Mumbai, director Ritesh Batra cooks up a moving tale about human connection and hope.
Another way is to travel to India and see the place for yourself.
There is far more to the sub-continent than can be contained in film and TV shows and even a short trip of five days proved to be eye-opening.
My itinerary packed in sprawling and beautifully decorated palace complexes in Jaipur, an impressive fortress and a massive mosque in Delhi, and that magnificent monument to love and fidelity, the Taj Mahal. Even with the guide playing up expectations, saying no one walks away disappointed, the sight of that sophisticated white-marbled feat of 17th-century architecture against the blue sky was spectacular.
Also, no small point, this – the food was delicious, with mouth-watering curries, tender tandoori meat and fish, fragrant naans and moreish snacks to devour.
Meanwhile, it is worth remembering not to gobble up everything one sees in cinemas and on TV just because it is served to us in a convenient little package.
(ST)

Five things for anime fans to do in Japan

Relax at Animax Cafe
At Animax Cafe in Akihabara, Tokyo, the staff dream of becoming professional seiyu, or voice actors, and handily belt out songs to entertain diners.
The theme at the concept cafe changes regularly and extends to the merchandise, food and drinks menu and also the coasters. The popular taiyaki snack, a fish-shaped cake with various fillings, gets an anime twist and is shaped into characters from shows.
A new branch of the cafe opened in Osaka in June.
When The Straits Times went to the Tokyo cafe last month, Star-Mu, an anime series about high school students of a music academy, was in the spotlight, while collectibles from the swimming series Free! were on sale.
Where: 3-7-12 Sotokanda Chiyoda-ku Tokyo
When: Noon to 10pm (weekday), 11am to 10pm (weekend)
Admission: 500 yen (S$5.70) plus a mandatory food and drink order for the table area and a mandatory order of either food or drink at the cafe area
Info: cafe.animax.co.jp (in Japanese)

Play at J-World Tokyo
Shonen Jump is a long-running weekly manga anthology and many of its popular titles have been adapted into anime, including ninja action drama Naruto, pirate comedy One Piece and volleyball series Haikyu.
At J-World, step into the shoes of your favourite character and, for example, solve puzzles to collect Dragon Balls or try to spike a volleyball set up by star player Kageyama. There are also limited-edition merchandise to buy and character-themed food and drinks to tuck into.
Where: 3-1-3 Higashiikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo Sunshine City World Import Mart Building 3F
When: 10am to 10pm daily Admission: An Unlimited Attractions Pass costs 2,600 yen for adults and 2,400 yen for children (aged four to 15) and includes the entrance fee and unlimited one-day access to rides and attractions. A Night Passport for use between 5 and 10pm costs 1,800 yen for adults and 1,600 yen for children
Info: www.namco.co.jp/tp/j-world/en/

Learn at Suginami Animation Museum
Find out what goes into the making of an anime.
Learn the basics of animation in a workshop and take a shot at dubbing a character’s voice at an interactive display.
There are also exhibits on the history of the genre, a library stocked with anime-related material and photo opportunities such as pretending to be a member of classic character Chibi Maruko-chan’s family. Note that most of the material is in Japanese.Where: 3-29-5 Kamiogi Suginami-ku, Tokyo
When: 10am to 6pm. Closed on Mondays, from Dec 28 to Jan 4 and on the day after a national holiday
Admission: Free
Info: sam.or.jp/english–home

Work out at an Anisong concert
Animax Musix, organised yearly by Animax Japan since 2009, is one of the biggest anisong (anime song) live concerts in Japan.
At the Nov 21 edition at the 17,000-seat Yokohama Arena, fans were on their feet for more than six hours in a song-and-dance extravaganza, waving their lightsticks in perfect timing to the rhythm of every track.
Apart from hearing their favourite anime theme songs from more than 40 acts, they were also treated to one-off collaborations between artists.
Rocker Gero caused a stir when he appeared in drag as the seventh member of girl group iRis for the pairing Gero-Ris.
The next Animax Musix concert will be held in Osaka on Feb 13.
Info: musix.animax.co.jp (in Japanese)

Get a sensory overload at Robot Restaurant
This could well be a draw for those who love mecha, a specific genre of robots and humanoid machines with titles such as Gundam and Neon Genesis Evangelion.
The kaleidoscopic waiting area, with its lights, mirrors and glittery surfaces, is merely a tease for the over-the-top neon fantasy to follow – performers drum up a storm, laser beams bounce off the walls, a clown sits in the lap of a giant female figure and, yes, there are robots dancing.
Sit in the first row and have the action take place a hair’s breadth away.
Where: 1-7-1 Kabukicho Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku Tokyo
When: Daily shows at 4, 5.55, 7.50 and 9.45pm. Arrive 30 minutes before showtime. Closed from Dec 31 to Jan 3
Admission: 7,000 yen a person, discounts available on the website
Info: www.shinjuku-robot.com/pc/?lng=en
(ST)

Pinyon pines and coniferous junipers cluster on the hill, partially obscuring a set of modest, rustic-looking wooden buildings.
Step inside and one is greeted with an onsen complex offering everything from a communal bath to private dips. Soak away the cares of this world as you ease into the hot water and contemplate the serene view of nature before you.
This is not Anywhere, Japan, though. Instead, Ten Thousand Waves swirls around on the edge of Hyde Memorial State Park, just outside the city limits of the art-and-adobe-architecture city of Santa Fe in south-west America.
According to their website, the place is inspired by Japanese mountain hot spring resorts.
The literature adds: “Everything we do from the gardens to the woodwork, from the therapies to the therapists, has been constantly and thoughtfully refined over the last 34 years. We pride ourselves on being ‘real’.”
Authenticity is clearly a selling point here.
The novelty alone of a Japanese hot spring experience on a chilly spring day in New Mexico was initially irresistible to me and my travel companion. But there was also the shadow of a doubt as to whether this would be more kitsch than kosher.
After all, this was transplanting a very different bathing style 10,000km to a place better known for its harsh landscapes and native American culture.
Would “real”, used with quotation marks on the website, turn out to be like “natural” and “home-made” – words debased of meaning when used in marketing and advertising?
On first impression, the place appeared to pass muster. The forest setting of the nearby national park was well-chosen and it was clear that great care had been taken with the architecture. The use of wood and stone gave a distinctive sense of place and signalled that one was not quite in New Mexico anymore.
Dark-blue noren, traditional Japanese fabric dividers, were hung in a doorway.
The attention to detail continued indoors. Patrons were issued yukata robes and the array of cleansing gels and lotions were scented with hinoki, a Japanese cypress, and yuzu, a Japanese citrus.
But in the end, there were limits to authenticity.
A small statue of Buddha respectfully housed outdoors in a wooden structure seemed a little out of place. That does not seem very Japanese, groused my friend.
The pre-bath cleaning areas featured showerheads one stands under rather than low stools for you to sit on as you perform your ablutions.
The communal pool turned out to be rather small and there was the forced proximity of having to sit right next to strangers. The tiny pocket of personal space here was perhaps more Western than Asian.
So was the wooden sauna cabin located adjacent to the pool. After all, there is a rich tradition of public baths in the West, from the thermal waters of the sprawling Szechenyi Baths in Budapest to the sweltering sauna. The term sauna itself is an old Finnish word which refers to the traditional Finnish bath and the bathhouse.
Also, the communal hot tub at Ten Thousand Waves is open to both men and women. In Japan, however, the baths have been segregated by gender since the Meiji restoration, which spanned the late 19th and early 20th century.
This is according to Wikipedia because how else would a non-Japanese be able to assess the purported authenticity of a Japanese-style onsen?
We crave the idea of authenticity as both an ideal and perhaps as a bragging right. Not all experiences are equal so surely the truer one is superior – even if the yardstick for measuring the degree of authenticity is beyond our grasp. After all, bathing culture in Singapore is more likely to be a quick zip to the shower than a long soak of any kind.
In comparison, determining whether an eatery offering a foreign cuisine is authentic seems easier, at least in Singapore. Take a look at the clientele and see if there are natives dining there. It is trickier to do so at Izanami, the Japanese restaurant on the grounds of Ten Thousand Waves, given that New Mexico is not exactly a magnet for the Japanese.
But even if there are limits to how authentic an onsen can be in Sante Fe, one appreciates the effort that went into creating an unusual bathing experience.
A tweaking and adaptation of imported customs and cultures can certainly be a good thing. And a slavish and rigid adherence to the orthodoxy of authenticity can well stifle the flow of creative juices and prevent innovation and breakthroughs.
Thoughts can start to drift when you let Ten Thousand Waves carry you away.
Next time though, I would book ahead for a private tub.
(ST)

Of the three countries that make up the island of Britain, Wales is probably the least familiar to visitors. Scotland is known for its castles and lochs and England has its bustling cities and popular Lake District.
But there is no reason why this should be so. Wales has plenty of greenery and scenery as well, from viridescent, wooded national parks to dramatic coastlines and brooding castles to charming villages.
It offers all that Britain can offer – with an added exotic touch. The written Welsh language has a suspicion of vowels and one is greeted by seemingly improbable signs everywhere. Wales in Welsh, for example, is spelt Cymru and pronounced “kumree”.
Everyone speaks English, however, so visitors will enjoy that frisson of something foreign and yet have no problems getting around.
On a trip organised by national tourism agency VisitBritain, we skip the major cities of Cardiff and Swansea and venture deep into the Welsh countryside in a trusty van.
The most direct way of experiencing the countryside is to simply immerse yourself in it. The Brecon Beacons National Park (www.breconbeacons.org) in South Wales is lush and green and peaceful – and a magnet for walkers, climbers, fishermen, canoeists, horse-riders and bird-watchers.
At its heart is the welcoming Gliffaes Country House Hotel (www.gliffaeshotel.com). It is possible to get our fill of nature just pottering around the grounds of the handsome house. There is even a walk on the estate to take in the almost 40 varieties of trees, including redwoods, oaks, cedars and maples. In autumn, bursts of red add a dash of dazzle to the landscape.
It is a land that I can almost believe is alive with magic, particularly when gazing upon the 4.27m free-standing stone in the middle of a field in the Glanusk estate. Nicknamed the fish stone for its resemblance to an upright fish, the menhir is one of the many standing stones which dot western Europe, silent sentinels of pre-historic cultures.
The Honourable Shan Legge-Bourke, owner of the estate, explains, in an accent so posh that the folks of Downton Abbey would blush with shame, that there is a legend associated with the stone.
It is said that it would turn into a man once a year on midsummer’s eve and, as a child, she had tried to catch a glimpse of that transformation by camping with friends. They managed to spook themselves but, of that elusive fish-man there was no sign.
Spread out across the Welsh countryside are other relics which conjure up the distant, if not quite as fantastical, past.
There are the spectacular ruins of Tintern Abbey (search at cadw.wales.gov.uk), with their towering interlocking arches, splendid against a backdrop of green rolling hills in the picturesque Wye Valley.
The remains date back to the 12th century, when the abbey was home to an austere order of monks known as the Cistercians. A short walk away and tucked into the hillside is the atmospheric ruined 19th-century church of St Mary. Tombstones dot the grounds, including what looks like a clawfoot bath memorial.
Not for naught has Wales been dubbed the castle capital of the world. It has more than 500 castles, of which more than a quarter are still standing, either as ruins or restored attractions. Many of them are under the care of Cadw (pronounced “kadu”), the historic environment service of the Welsh government.
One of the best preserved is Conwy Castle (search at cadw.wales.gov.uk) on the north coast of Wales, which Unesco considers one of the “finest examples of late 13th-century and early 14th-century military architecture in Europe”.
It is also home to some of the continent’s best preserved mediaeval walls and I get an excellent overview of the town and the surrounding environs while walking along the elevated stone walkways. And when we peer into the yards of modern-day houses, we wonder if property prices are lower the closer they are to pesky tourists.
Another familiar building in the Welsh landscape is the church, be it large or small, imposing or inviting. The Holy Cross church at Mwnt (pronounced “mont”) is a modest affair, with whitewashed walls and a grey roof, but it is dramatically set against a green hillside which overlooks a sliver of beach. A waterfall runs down the slope invitingly to what has been voted as one of Europe’s top 10 loveliest hidden beaches in the Daily Mail newspaper.
We, a motley crew of writers from around the world, troop down to the quiet, sandy cove and also hike up the hill, hunkering against the whipping wind to perch atop a rocky ridge to take in the gorgeous view. No one is blown away and we have windswept pictures to prove we made the foolhardy trek. It is a good day.
Those with a taste for adventure can also fly over rugged landscapes at Zip World Titan (www.zipworld.co.uk), nestled amongst the mountains of Snowdonia in North Wales.
For a more genteel way of luxuriating in the countryside, hop on a train or tram.
The Vale of Rheidol Railway (www.rheidolrailway.co.uk) is a storybook steam engine locomotive that shuttles between the holiday resort town of Aberystwyth and the intriguingly named Devil’s Bridge. As it winds its way through the woods, the gorgeous valley bursts into view for a second or two before getting swallowed up by the trees once more. And each time, it sets off a mad scramble of picture-snapping for Instagram’s sake.
For a less challenging level of photo-taking, take a ride on The Great Orme Tramway (www.greatormetramway.co.uk), in operation since 1902. As it climbs 1.5km up the Great Orme Country Park and Nature Reserve, the houses drop away and sweeping vistas of blue sea and green and yellow grass appear as sunlight peeks through the cloud cover.
For a change of scenery, we drop by some of the charming towns and villages snuggled in the countryside. With its maze of bookshops catering to every taste, from murder thrillers to poetry, Hay-on-Wye (www.hay-on-wye.co.uk) is a welcoming sight indeed for the voracious reader.
Even the animals here seem more literary as one orange tabby lazily patrols an unmanned second-hand shop set against a stone wall. An advertisement for Anti-Stiff to strengthen the muscles in an old tome sets off a round of giggles and someone buys it for a laugh.
The village hosts an international renowned book festival in May and just about the only thing that is not welcome is the electronic reading device. “Kindles are banned from the Kingdom of Hay,” proclaims a banner solemnly.
Even quirkier is coastal resort Portmeirion (www.portmeirion-village.com) within Snowdonia National Park in north Wales. Designed and built by one Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975, it feels as though we have wandered onto a film set of an Italian village filled with colourful facades and incongruous touches.
Cherubs and mermaids abound, a Buddha statue sits serenely under a verandah, while sculptures of Thai dancers perch atop columns in a central garden.
One of the most satisfying ways of savouring the countryside is to sink one’s teeth into it.
Given the variety of fresh local produce, chefs have no need to look beyond their own backyards for inspiration. Check out the ingredients at food markets such as the one at Abergavenny, with its distinctive decoration of lifelike pigs hanging from the rafters – or get down and dirty at the cattle market in Cardigan and get hypnotised by the sing-song auctioneer.
Treat yourself to a traditional Sunday roast beef and Yorkshire pudding or pamper yourself with the delicious tasting menu at one-Michelin-starred Ynyshir Hall (www.ynyshirhall.co.uk) by head chef Gareth Ward. Our lunch includes a mushroom dish that is umami richness, balanced with a little tartness and crunchiness from some croutons, perfectly cooked pink lamb and a dessert that harmonises tart flavours and creamy textures.
And to work off any meal, simply start walking from wherever you are. You will not be disappointed by what you find.
(ST)

Mention Cambodia and culinary finesse is unlikely to be the first thing that comes to mind. But a visit to Phnom Penh reveals a bubbling fine dining scene.
After delving into the country’s glorious ancient history and horrific recent past, boost your energy and spirits with a satisfying treat. There are enough options to pack a three- to four-day trip with deliciousness ranging from South American tapas to deep-fried tarantulas. A foodie trip to Cambodia is definitely an option to bear in mind with the number of long weekends to come this year and next.
For our group of five, we were able to have very good meals for about US$20 (S$25) a head. The most expensive meal was at La Residence, which came to under US$50 a head. While the local currency is Cambodian riel, US dollars are accepted everywhere and is the currency that prices are quoted in.
The list here is by no means exhaustive and one regret I have is missing out on the restaurant Common Tiger. It was closed on a Monday evening when we tried to get a booking.
The New York Times says its South African chef, Timothy Bruyns, “artfully reimagines Cambodian flavours with his molecular gastronomy-inspired fare like a peanut-lime crusted sea bass with jasmine rice discs”.
It will just have to wait till the next trip.

FRIENDS THE RESTAURANT
215 Street 13
Tel: +855-12-802-072
Website: www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/friends.asp
ROMDENG
74 Street 174
Tel: +855-92-219-565
Website: www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/romdeng.asp
Eat a meal and support a good cause at Friends The Restaurant and Romdeng.
They are sister eateries which provide street kids and marginalised youth and adults with a means of living as cooks and wait staff.
Friends offers an extensive menu of dishes for sharing and we pick the ones that catch our eye, from stir fried red tree ants with beef fillet and holy basil (US$7.50) to Burmese chicken curry on crispy noodles with smoked chillies and pickled mustard greens (US$5.75).
We also asked if we could order tarantulas, a local delicacy, even though they only have it on the menu at Romdeng. They obligingly agreed as it was just located nearby and we got to satisfy our curiosity.
The critters turned out to be smaller than expected since every photo of the dish is in extreme close-up. Turns out that deep fried arachnids taste pretty similar to soft shell crab. And no, you do not feel the hairy legs scuttling down your throat.
What packed a little more bite was the coconut and chilli ice-cream with the wonderfully smoky charred pineapple (US$4.25).
The food was decent enough that we made a separate visit to Romdeng, which is about a 10-minute walk away from Friends. Its fortuitous appearance just when we needed to take a break from the searing heat helped as well.
I rounded off a lunch of mango salad, stuffed squid and amok with a refreshing lime black pepper sorbet. But the daiquiri version was, as my friend declared, “awesome”.

MALIS
136 Street 41 Norodom Boulevard
Tel: +855-707-944-2380
Website: www.malis-restaurant.com
Centred around a restful courtyard, Malis was opened in 2004 as one of the first upscale Cambodian restaurants in the country. We had an unforgettable lunch here as every dish was refined and full of freshness and flavour from the bamboo shoots and smoked fish soup (US$7.50) to the pork and banana blossoms salad (US$6.50).
The traditional Khmer dish amok (US$7), or steamed curried fish, was the best we had, both delicate and robust at the same time. Even better was the baked goby (US$15). It looked disconcertingly reptilian head-on but that was no deterrent to a group of hungry diners who picked it clean. The fish was so fresh that the lemongrass, garlic and salt crust it was baked with was enough to bring out its flavour.

TEPUI AT CHINESE HOUSE
Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay
Tel: +855-23-991-514
Website: www.tepui.asia
The head chef, Gisela Salazar Golding, is from Venezuela and the food on offer here is South American tapas with Japanese accents. From the empanadas filled with beef picadillo and goat cream cheese to the prettily seared scallops to the Sake Rojito cocktail, there was a nice balance of flavours that suggested that someone had put a lot of thought into them.
Located in a house built by a Chinese trader in 1903, and restored in 2009, it now hosts a restaurant, lounge bar and gallery for your lounging and art-browsing needs in one convenient space.

LA RESIDENCE
22-24 Street 214, tel: +855-23-224-582
Website: www.la-residence-restaurant. com
Dine like royalty in the former residence of Prince Norodom Ranariddh.
The kitchen is helmed by Swiss-trained Japanese chef Takeshi Kamo. The menu is classically French with some Japanese accents, from the wagyu beef options to a soft shell crab starter. I went for the beef carpaccio with local green pepper from Kampot, grilled skate fish and had chocolate eclair for dessert. The meal was pleasant enough without being particularly exciting.
For those on a tight budget, go for the US$15 three-course set lunch.

PUBLIC HOUSE
The 240½ Alleyway (off Street 240)
Tel: 855-17-770-754
Website: Search for Public House Phnom Penh in Facebook.
BAR.SITO
The 240½ Alleyway (off Street 240)
Tel: 855-77-960-413
Website: Search for Bar.sito in Facebook.
It feels like a Harry Potter adventure when we set off in search of alleyway 240½.
And it took some convincing from the tuk-tuk driver that we had come to the right place since neither the restaurant nor the bar are exactly visible from the main road. They are tucked into an alley in a poshly quiet area.
You can order food from Public House and have it at the bar, but we decide to sit down at a proper table in a well-lit space instead. Unfortunately, the ventilation was terrible at Public House and they messed up the doneness for two steaks. At least they were nice enough to redo the order to exactly how we wanted it. The menu is mostly western and includes pub favourites such as burgers and fish and chips.
The cooling darkness of Bar.Sito felt like a respite after the stuffiness of House but one is soon reminded that smoking indoors is allowed here. Cocktails are US$5 each and happy hour is from 5 to 7pm.

FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS’ CLUB
363 Sisowath Quay
Tel: +855-23-724-014
Website: fcccambodia.com
Is this it? We wondered because there was only a sign and stairs leading up a somewhat shabby-looking building. The Foreign Correspondents’ Club does not actually have much of a streetfront space but no matter, you don’t come here for the street view.
Instead, drop by in the evening for a sundowner as the Tonle Sap river, which the rooftop bar overlooks, gets bathed in rosy light. And the good news is that one-for-one happy hour deals are available from 5 to 7pm. Cocktails normally cost US$4.95 a glass.
The FCC Transfusion, a concoction of vodka, limes, cranberry juice and ginger ale, is perfect for quenching thirst and beating the heat. They serve food here as well, a mix of Asian and Western fare, but we do not make it past the liquids section.

ELEPHANT BAR
Raffles Hotel Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh, Sangkat Wat Phnom
Tel: +855-23-981-888
Website: www.raffles.com/phnom-penh/dining/elephant-bar
No less a luminary than the late glamorous Jacqueline Kennedy has graced the bar – and they have the glass with her lipstick mark still on it to prove it. They also have a signature champagne cocktail to commemorate her 1967 visit, mischievously named Femme Fatale.
Happy hour from 4 to 9pm gets you a 50 per cent discount (cocktails are normally around US$10 each) so relax in a comfy rattan chair in the classily cosy surroundings. And pick a tipple which tickles your fancy from the Bou Sraa Waterfall to the Paris Sling (“like Singapore Sling, but stronger” said our server). The drinks are strong so take care not to guzzle like an elephant.
(ST)

The spectacular landscape of the Nordic island of Iceland does not seem quite of this world. And that is why it has such a beguiling allure.
American astronauts trained there before walking on the moon as that was the closest they could get to a place that looks like an extra- terrestrial environment.
From fiery volcanic activity to blocks of ice floating serenely in a lagoon, Iceland has it all, thanks to its geographic location atop restless tectonic plates and just on the edge of the Arctic Circle.
And because it is relatively small, its sights are all easily accessible from the capital of Reykjavik.
The adventure starts when you land, as the Blue Lagoon geothermal pool (www.bluelagoon.com) is just 20 minutes away by bus from Keflavik Airport. Book ahead with operators such as Reykjavik Excursions (www.re.is) or Iceland Excursions (www.grayline.is), or sign up at the airport when you arrive.
Lounging in the warm mineral-rich, milky-blue waters with curative powers is the best way to relax after a long flight. Do plaster the white silicate mud on your face to get the most out of the soak. And when you are done, buses can take you straight to Reykjavik, a 50-minute ride away.
Instead of renting cars, my friends and I decided to base ourselves in the city and go on day trips instead.
Top attractions – Thingvellir rift valley, Geysir’s spouting pools and Gullfoss waterfall – are clustered together in a circuit tagged as the Golden Circle.
Most companies offer tours and we decided to go with Gateway To Iceland (www.gti.is) at the recommendation of the staff at the tourist information centre. Our guide was steeped in facts and even told a story about elves, gods and a kettle of gold though on comparing notes later, it seemed that everyone nodded off at some point.
The more ambitious day trip we made was to Vatnajokull, Europe’s largest glacier. It covers 8,100 sq km or over 8 per cent of the country. Vatnajokull National Park is south-east of Iceland, 330km from Reykjavik. We went with Glacier Guides (www.glacierguides.is) because it included both light hiking and a boat ride. The brochure also promised a “warm Icelandic waffle with cream and jam” at the end of the day.
Arriving at the Falljokull (“falling glacier”) section, we geared up with crampons (metal spikes strapped to the shoes) and were soon walking on the glacier itself.
It was an exhilarating experience trekking on 1,000-year-old ice and seeing melted water flowing freely just beneath the solid surface. It felt perfectly safe though our guides pointed out sinkholes and mentioned that one was about 50m to 60m deep.
The reward for our hike was a very special treat indeed. Perched over a rivulet with one’s weight supported by a pickaxe lodged into the ice – Chuck Norris-style, said the guides – I lapped up the purest and most refreshing water I have ever tasted.
There was more to this magical day when we entered the Jokulsarlon lagoon with its serenely floating icebergs in shades of blue and white.
The lagoon has frozen over only once – for James Bond. When they shot Die Another Day (2002) with Pierce Brosnan, the area was dammed up so that sea water could not flow in. The lagoon duly froze over and the film had its stunning chase scene in the bag.
And yes, there were waffles to end the excursion on a sweet note and they were perfect washed down with Vatnajokull beer, which is brewed from glacial water.
In between drinking in the sights, we explored the vibrant city of Reykjavik. Street art blossomed everywhere and you could hardly turn a corner without seeing something thoughtful (“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see”), witty (shimmery lava that seemed to flow down a wall) or beautiful (a giant mushroom made up of smaller colourful ones). There was also poetry stencilled onto the pavement.
And when you need a break, pop into one of the cafes or go to Eldur & Is for its yummy ice cream in a cone dipped in your choice of chocolate sauce.
Before the trip, friends had warned that the food “leaves something to be desired”. Either the culinary scene had improved markedly or they somehow missed the best of Icelandic cuisine.
For a light snack, try the hotdogs from the Baejarins Beztu Pylsur stand near the harbour (Tryggvagotu 1). Ask for fried onions to add some crunch and top it off with mustard, with its welcome note of caramel.
The Saegreifinn, or Sea Baron (saegreifinn.is), at the harbour serves excellent lobster soup. The humarsupa came with wonderfully tender chunks of lobster and was faintly reminiscent of laksa broth but without the spiciness, and it tasted as though the essence of the sea had been distilled into it.
At the other end of the dining scale was Dill Restaurant (dillrestaurant.is). Despite an over-liberal use of salt at times, the meal we had there was an exciting one with fresh shrimp, cod, mushrooms and skyr (Icelandic yogurt). We also saw the chef dashing out into the garden to grab a handful or two of herbs.
There were plenty of exotic dishes on offer, from smoked puffin to minke whale sashimi.
We tried hakarl, or rotted shark, which the waitress described as having the taste of strong cheese. It tasted like an animal that had drowned in a pool of urine. It was served cold and when a cube of it warmed up in the mouth from chewing, it released a jolt of pungent ammonia that threatened to overwhelm one’s senses. For some reason, the waitress said she does not eat it.
A quick word about the money situation here.
The Icelandic krona is the currency used and the exchange rate is about 100 krona to S$1. You can change a small amount of it at the airport but plastic is accepted everywhere. My smallest card purchase was for a doughnut which cost the equivalent of S$1.38.
The people there are also great about splitting bills and will happily do so even for large parties. To give a rough idea of how much it costs to eat out: A casual meal of a burger and a beverage at Geysir Bistro & Bar costs 2,760 kr (S$27). A five-course tasting menu plus a bottle of beer at Dill Restaurant cost 9,700 kr.
As for accommodation, the band of 15,000 to 30,000 kr for a standard double room is deemed mid-range by the website wikitravel.org. In other words, it is not very cheap. I found a cosy apartment on airbnb.com located just off the main shopping street of Laugavegur which could comfortably fit three. We paid about S$58 a night a person.
The only place I visited which did not take plastic was The Icelandic Phallological Museum. Its gift shop, by the way, has some fun and naughty souvenirs.
For friends and family with a less liberal sense of humour, get hand-made treats from chocolatier Haflidi Ragnarsson. Or pick up kitschy-cool items with characters such as Bubble the mushroom and Buddha the rock star from the magical world of Tulipop (tulipop.com) by Icelandic illustrator Signy Kolbeinsdottir.
An Icelandic sense of humour is apparent from souvenirs such as message T-shirts (“If you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes”) and offbeat items such as canned air (“For best effect, use outside of Iceland”).
Then again, you probably need a cheery outlook to get you through the long dark winter. Visiting in summer meant re-calibrating one’s idea of the season since temperatures can drop to as low as 10 degrees.
Forbidding as it may seem, we are already looking forward to going to Iceland in the winter. The Aurora Borealis blazing across the night skies has to be the most spectacular light show on earth – or even beyond.
(ST)

It is a holiday trip in which you call the shots. You decide what time to get up and set off, how long to linger at each attraction or even whether to wander off the set path.

While Singaporeans are familiar with the pleasures of driving trips in countries such as New Zealand and the United States, the idea can seem rather daunting in a place where you do not understand the language.

But on recent trips to Okinawa and Chubu in Japan, Life! found the driving experience to be breezy and fuss-free.

The trip was organised by local tour agency Follow Me Japan, which has been organising fly-and-drive Japanese holidays since 2005.

All cars come equipped with a GPS navigation system, which means that getting from point A to point B is as simple as keying in a numerical map code and then following the English voice instructions. It also helps that the Japanese are patient and polite drivers and you never feel hassled on the roads.

You get a detailed booklet with a suggested itinerary, complete with maps, colour photographs and descriptive passages. Much care goes into putting all this together and there are also recommendations on popular local eateries and specialities one should not miss.

Also, since most cellphones in Singapore do not work in Japan because of the different technologies adopted, the agency issues its customers with a local mobile phone for ease of communication within the group.

Follow Me Japan started off with driving tours to Hokkaido and has since added other destinations such as the regions of Tohoku and Chubu, and recently, the southern-most prefecture of Okinawa.

The main island of Okinawa is blessed with a rugged coastline and clear, shallow waters teeming with an abundance of marine life and colourful corals. Divers can plunge right in and swim alongside more than 1,000 species of fish, marine mammals and sea turtles and more than 200 reef-building corals.

For non-divers, the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium (oki-churaumi.jp, tel: +81-980-48-3748) is a good place to start getting acquainted with beauteous and bountiful nature. After all, Churaumi means beautiful sea in the local dialect.

It recreates, in air-conditioned comfort, the experience of venturing from the shallow shores to the deep sea as you saunter from the fourth floor to the first, passing by garden eels, an array of darting fish and the carcass of a giant squid.

The world-class aquarium boasts a central tank which houses 70 species, including regal manta rays and circling whale sharks, the largest fish in the world which grow to an average length of 7.6m.

When you venture outdoors, it pays to be well prepared with sunscreen, headgear and shades as the summer heat is intense and the light piercingly bright.

The Busena Marine Park (www.busena-marinepark.com is in Japanese only or www.okinawastory.jp, tel: +81-980-52- 3379) offers rides in a glass-bottom boat and fabulous views at 3 to 4m deep from the underwater observatory tower. This is as close as you can get to the tropical fish and delicate corals without getting your feet wet.

There are clownfish clowning about among the poisonous tentacles of sea anemone, while the flamboyant Banana Wrasse steals the show every time its vivid rainbow colours come into view.

Since this is a free-and-easy driving trip, feel free to stop at any of the scenic lookout points and take in the dramatic coastline. At Cape Manzamo, an “elephant” carved out of the rock by the relentless waves looks like it is about to dip its trunk into the irresistible waters for a refreshing drink.

Climb the 30m-tall lighthouse at Cape Zanpa for panoramic views of sea and land as the wind rushes about.

For the most part, driving in Okinawa is easy as the traffic is fairly light except during rush hour in the evenings.

While it is not as scenic as, say, Hokkaido, you do get rewarded with flashes of brilliantly blue water every so often.

After all that activity and driving around, reward yourself by tucking into the delicious harvest served up by the sea.

Try the local speciality, umibudo (seagrapes), at the popular Ganso Umi Budo Honten restaurant (tel: +81-98-966- 2588). The seagrape-don has a generous helping of the seaweed along with ikura (salmon roe), uni (sea urchin) and yamakake (grated Japanese mountain yam). The reason for the name is apparent when you see it as it looks like little bunches of green grapes. The seaweed bursts in your mouth and tastes of the sea. Think of seagrapes as a firmer and less salty version of salmon roe.

The nearby Yakaji Island produces kuruma ebi (literally, car prawns) and you can have them tempura-style at Kuruma Ebi Shokudo (tel: +81-980-47-7888). The fresh and juicy prawns are coated in a light batter and then deep-fried to perfection. Wash them down with an ice- cold mug of the local Orion beer.

A good way to beat the heat is to tuck into zenzai. It is a Zen version of ice kacang with no bells and whistles or artificial colouring, yet it is amazing how satisfying the simple combination of shaved ice and red beans can be.

At Makishi Public Market in bustling Kokusai Street, pick up the catch of the day and have it served to you at the eateries conveniently located on the second floor of the market.

There is a lot more to explore when it comes to Okinawan cuisine. A distinguishing feature is the prominence of ingredients such as pork and goya (bitter gourd). Dig into the cooling stir-fry of goya champuru as well as the melt-in-your-mouth tenderness of rafute – a dish of braised pork belly that was fit for the royal family of the Ryukyu Kingdom, which is present-day Okinawa.

The splendours of the kingdom can be glimpsed from a visit to Shurijo Castle (www.oki-park.jp, tel: +81-98-886- 2020), which was first built between the 13th and 14th centuries. As befitting a major trading port which absorbed influences from abroad, the castle has elements of mainland Japanese, Chinese and Korean architecture.

If you are keen to learn more about Okinawa’s storied past, drop by sights such as the Zakimi Castle ruins (www.okinawastory.jp, tel: +81-98-958- 3141) and Shikinaen Royal Garden (www.okinawastory.jp, tel: +81-98-855- 5936), as well as the Okinawa Prefectural Museum (www.museums.pref.okinawa. jp, tel: +81-98-941-8200) with its detailed dioramas and extensive write- ups in English.

At some point though, do head for the beach. Feel the sun on your skin, get your feet wet and just lose yourself in a sea of dazzling blues.

(ST)

Watching polo players thundering across a field against the lush backdrop of the rolling hills of Mongolia’s spectacular Orkhon River Valley, it is easy to imagine that Genghis Khan’s fearsome warrior cavalry had once raised clouds of swirling dust on these same plains. In their case, the ball could well have been an enemy’s head.

Even now, people continue to lose their heads, and hearts, to the sport.

Lifestyle retailer Shanghai Tang’s executive chairman Raphael le Masne de Chermont picked it up when he was 14, had his face smashed in by a mallet at 16, and is now giving pointers to his teenage son.

His passion for the sport has led to the brand supporting the revival of polo in Mongolia by contributing proceeds from sales of the Shanghai Tang Genghis Khan polo shirts as well as presenting the Shanghai Tang Polo Cup. Hence this reporter’s trip to Mongolia, sponsored by the Hong Kong-based label.

Last month, the Mongolians beat the international team of invited players, including some from the Singapore Polo Club, to gallop away with the trophy.

It was the crowning event of what was billed as the first international polo naadam. The term naadam refers to a festival and traditionally comprises the “three manly games” of wrestling, archery and horse racing. The biggest one takes place in Ulan Bator in July each year.

Mr Le Masne de Chermont works closely with German-born film producer and cashmere businessman Christopher Giercke, who in 1998 founded the Genghis Khan Polo & Riding Club, the venue of the polo cup.

Giercke claims to have re-introduced the equestrian sport back to the land which, along with Iran and India, is a contender for the birthplace of polo.

The club sits on pristine land leased from the national park property. It is located 360km west of the capital city Ulan Bator and is accessible by road, private plane or helicopter. For those who want to get away from it all, and do it in style, the club is certainly an off-the-beaten-track option.

Because of the remoteness of the area and the surrounding hills, there is no telecommunications reception. Bye, bye, Internet and text messages. Any communing here is with nature.

A visitor from the urban, cosmopolitan city of Singapore will find living in a ger, or yurt, a definite experience. There is no electricity, no running water but there is a wood-burning stove with a smoke stack poking through the top of the tent. And you have to stumble down the hillside by moonlight to get to the outhouse, which is a loo with a view by day and a slightly tricky proposition by night.

What you get in return for any minor inconveniences are dazzling vistas of a river wending its way through the grassy plains, fresh alpine air and a chance to gallop through those picturesque views. It is a thrill just to watch the majestic kites in flight, wings still and outstretched to ride an updraft.

The club has trainers available for activities such as riding, polo, archery and fishing, and it can also organise horse treks to explore nearby lakes and hot springs.

I probably should have gone for a refresher course in riding before galloping, okay cantering, along the river bank and ending up with chafed skin.

In keeping with the ecologically respectful ethos of the club, the polo and riding horses are domesticated, but they are free to roam each night instead of being tethered in stables. Also, there are no fixed buildings, roads, fences or electricity lines.

Summer is the best season to visit, weather-wise. Even then, there is a wide range in temperatures going from blazing hot during the day to winter-jacket cold at night. Once the season is over, the entire camp gets torn down and not a trace of human activity remains.

Which is not to say that guests are expected to rough it out entirely. Entering the large dining ger, one is greeted by the sight of a baby grand piano, trucked in over the grassy plains and then tenderly attended to by a piano tuner. There are also massage and bath gers, where one can be pampered after a long day of physical exertion.

There were pleasant surprises on the culinary front too, with chef Enkhee whipping up fusion dishes such as mutton paella and mushroom risotto. It was also a bit of a relief since traditional Mongolian foods such as the slightly tart airag (fermented horse milk), the buttery clotted cream and the rock-hard cheese are definitely an acquired taste.

For those keen on a glimpse of Mongolia’s rich past, the ancient capital of Karakorum is an hour’s drive, on a bumpy road, from the club. There are several accommodation options here ranging from hotels to ger-type camping. The Lonely Planet website has a listing, though none of the places appear to have its own website.

The major attraction in town is Erdene Zuu, probably the oldest surviving Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. It was built in 1585, escaped destruction under communist rule and is an active place of worship today.

The Hambo Lama (head lama) here is just 33 and he wants to see the faith grow in the decades to come. Buddhism is a calling for the man whose grandfather was a monk. He remembers visiting Erdene Zuu as a young boy: “It felt good, that this was my place.”

The faith has deep roots in the country and is closely linked to Tibetan Buddhism. This can be seen in the architecture, including in details such as the ubiquity of prayer wheels, and in certain practices, such as prostration, where devotees get down on their knees before lying flat on the ground with arms outstretched.

At the Gandantegchinlen monastery complex in Ulan Bator, there are boards in front of the stupas and shrines for monks and devotees alike to purify themselves through that humbling physical act. As a concession to age and inexperience, boards for the old and for novices are tilted upward at an angle.

Improbably, the capital city is also home to a Louis Vuitton store. The luxury label’s appearance raised eyebrows in a country where incomes are still relatively low though some have embraced it as a symbol of how far Mongolia has come.

For a visitor though, its presence adds little charm to the ramshackle construction boomtown and its traffic snarls. After less than a day here, the wide open plains of Orkhon Valley glisten more enchantingly than ever.

(ST)

No one could ever accuse Dubai of doing things on a small scale.
The most populous city of the United Arab Emirates has the world’s largest man-made harbour and is building the largest airport as well as gunning for the title of tallest skyscraper with the Burj Dubai (Dubai Tower).
Less well-known, though, is the fact that it is also a family-friendly destination with a water-themed park, an indoor ski trail, fun desert activities and massive malls with something for everyone.
The propensity for grandness and the family-friendly vibe come together in one splendid package at Atlantis, The Palm (atlantisthepalm.com).
The US$1.5-billion (S$2.2-billion) resort opened with a bang last November with a fireworks display described by the organisers as “seven times larger than the Olympic Games opening ceremony” in Beijing.
Pop star Kylie Minogue performed in front of 2,000 guests, who included talk-show queen Oprah Winfrey and Oscar-winner Charlize Theron.
You can see for yourself what the fuss is about, with lodging available from 800 dirhams (S$316) until Sept 19. Clad in a coat of cheerful and whimsical pastel pink, Atlantis is located at the tip of the man-made Palm Jumeirah island. All of its 1,539 rooms and suites offer a view of the glistening sea.
Impressive as it is, Jumeirah is the smallest of the three Palm Islands being developed by the Dubai government-owned Nakheel company. Unfortunately, its palm-shaped glory can be seen only from the air.
There are over 30 dining and wining options offered by Atlantis. Gastronomes will be pleased at the prospect of enjoying the creations of famed chefs such as Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Giorgio Locatelli, Michel Rostang and Santi Santamaria at its restaurants.
Expect to spend about 500 dirhams per person at Michelin-starred Santamaria’s Ossiano, which offers a modern take on Catalan cuisine and tapas. Or splurge US$150 for Nobu’s Chef’s Choice Omakase menu.
There are dining plans available and children six and under get to eat for free. They start at US$69 a day for adults and US$35 for children between seven and 11 for the casual dining plan.
As the grown-ups partake of culinary adventures, the young, and the young at heart, will be more excited by the 17ha Aquaventure, the region’s largest water-themed attraction. Guests staying at Atlantis enjoy free unlimited access to it. Otherwise, it costs 200 dirhams for a day pass and 165 dirhams for those below 1.2m.
The rides at the Ziggurat complex are the main attraction. The near-vertical Leap of Faith slide, which stands more than nine storeys high, is aptly named. Be prepared for an adrenaline jolt, particularly when you feel your body lifting off the slide.
For those who prefer less heart-pounding rides, try the Shark Attack, in which you sit on an air-filled tube and drift leisurely in a see-through tunnel which cuts across a shark-filled lagoon.
When the walkways start to burn the soles of your feet, it is time to hotfoot out of the sun and duck into the cool environs of The Lost Chambers aquarium. The Atlantis theme can get a little hokey but there is no denying the hypnotic effect of a colossal underwater display.
Every time you walk by the 11-million- litre marine habitat of the Ambassador Lagoon, you feel compelled to stop and stare at its denizens, among them graceful rays, circling sharks and slithery eels.
You can sign up for a session at Dolphin Bay to learn more about this intelligent mammal and, of course, to frolic in the water with it. It is located within Aquaventure but separate charges apply. The cost of dolphin interaction starts from 625 dirhams for resort guests and includes same-day access to Aquaventure.
After the watery attractions of Atlantis, head out to the desert, about an hour’s drive away, for a different range of experiences such as bashing through the dunes in a 4X4 vehicle.
But since bouncing around the shifting sands could induce carsickness in some people, settle down in the evening to watch Jumana – Secret Of The Desert, a multisensory extravaganza featuring lasers, pyrotechnics and water screens at the amp- hitheatre in Al Sahra Desert Resort (www. alsahra.com/jumanahome.htm). Tickets for adults start from 150 dirhams, 50 dirhams for children under 12.
If your little ones still have energy to spare, have them work it off at Ski Dubai (www.skidxb.com), the first indoor ski resort in the Middle East. It offers five runs of varying difficulty and a snow park for those inclined to give even the gentlest of slopes a miss. A two-hour session on the slope costs 180 dirhams for adults and 150 for children.
More importantly, the ski resort is conveniently located within Mall of the Emirates, whose enthusiastic tagline is “Shopping is just the beginning”. It features more than 460 international brands, from high-end labels such as Marc Jacobs to mass fashion names such as H&M.
The honour of the world’s largest shopping mall, however, goes to Dubai Mall, which opened officially last November. The US$20-billion project is part of the Burj Arab complex and has 1,200 shops, more than 150 dining outlets and cafes and an adjoining five-star hotel. Oh, and 14,000 covered carpark spaces.
For a taste of local culture, brave the heat and venture into the souks (Arabic for markets) clustered around the north bank of the Dubai Creek for some old-world shopping. The maze of alleyways offer everything from gold to exotic spices to fabrics in every colour and price range.
While some of the malls try to replicate the souk experience in air-conditioned quarters, the sights, smells and sounds are best experienced in the Deira old quarters.
Keep your eyes peeled for gems such as the world’s biggest ring, with over 58kg of gold used, with the certification by Guinness World Records proudly displayed next to it.
Then take a ride on the abra water taxi across the Dubai Creek to the Dubai Museum (3 dirhams for adults, 1 dirham for children, free for kids under five) at Al Fahidi Fort, built in 1787 and the city’s oldest building. Walk through dioramas depicting the lives of the people in bygone days and marvel at how far the city has come.
You can also take in the sights along the Creek in style aboard the Bateaux Dubai as the vessel’s interior is glass-encased. Enjoy your fine dining experience while the city lights up the night and chew over all that you have seen and heard. The four-course gourmet meal is available at 333 dirhams until Sept 30.
This thriving cosmopolitan emirate is constantly reinventing itself and audaciously ambitious projects abound. There is the ginormous entertainment complex Dubailand and The World, a collection of man-made islands shaped into the continents of the earth.
While the pace of construction has slowed as a result of the current downturn, most remain optimistic that Dubai’s onward march is unstoppable.
It would be fascinating to see what the place looks like in five years when the array of mega-projects is completed. But by then, the city could well be off chasing an even bigger, better and brighter vision of itself.

5 things to do
1 Protect yourself from the heat and glare with shades, sunscreen and headgear, and drink lots of water.
2 Take along some warm clothing if you plan to be out in the desert at night. The temperature can fall to a low of 15 deg C in January.
3 Be sensitive when taking photographs of people, especially Muslim women. Ask before you click.
4 Snap some pictures of the Burj Dubai. The world’s tallest skyscraper with 160 floors is expected to be completed by September, but it already dominates the city’s skyline.
5 Visit the iconic Burj Al Arab. Even if you cannot afford the US$1,000 (S$1,400) per night rate for the smallest suite at one of the world’s most exclusive hotels, stroll along the beach next to it to see gorgeous sunsets.

2 don’ts
1 Don’t stress out over changing Singapore dollars into dirhams. You can easily do so when you arrive at the airport in Dubai.
2 Don’t jaywalk. It carries a 500-dirhams (S$197) fine.
(ST)

malacca, eaten

we've only just begun
this is pit stop no. 1
went to the loo
at pit stop 2
satay spree
pit stop 3
we roared: 'give us more!'
it was only pit stop 4
gula melaka glaze does thrive
on the donuts at pit stop 5
cold drinks and verbal tricks
at pit stop no. 6
bite-sized snack heaven
is pit stop 7
it was a full meal that we ate
at memorable pit stop 8
rise and shine
pit stop 9
can we do it? yes we can!
forward march to pit stop 10
almost extinct but not quite forsaken
tai bak at pit stop no. 11
into teochew cuisine we did delve
it was penultimate pit stop 12
what a great trip this has been
made it to pit stop 13!

It should really be called the Blue Dissected Plateau. “But that does not quite have the same ring as the Blue Mountains, does it?” asks Mr Tim Tranter, owner-operator of Tread Lightly Eco Tours (http://www.treadlightly.com.au/).
Located 90 minutes from Sydney by car, the Blue Mountains World Heritage National Park is a sprawling 2,500 sq km of forested valleys, sheer cliffs and plunging waterfalls.For those who have been to Sydney and think of it as an urban, coastal cityscape, the proximity of the mountains is a lovely surprise.
And the best way to learn about it is to sign up for a fully guided bush walk conducted by someone such as Mr Tranter, who has lived in the area for more than 40 years, served as a fire and rescue team member, and saves trapped snakes in his spare time.
The name of his company, Tread Lightly, reflects the philosophy of its tours:to leave a minimal imprint on nature through the use of eco-friendly resources. His four-wheel drive runs on liquefied petroleum gas and he wants to convert it to operate on natural gas, which pollutes even less.
Given his background and his love of the place, he is a fount of information.
The area is called Blue Mountains because the light refracted through the oil released by the eucalyptus or gum trees, makes the haze look blue from a distance.
That, however, is possibly the least fascinating aspect of the area’s ecology. It seems things are done differently Down Under, even when it concerns nature.
Fires are often seen as a destructive force but the frequency of their occurrence here has contributed to some unusual flora. The banksia plant, for instance, actually needs fire for its seedpods to burst open and scatter the seeds inside.
As we drive down a track through the bush, Mr Tranter grabs a leaf off a branch, crushes it and passes it to me. “Here, smell this,” he says. The oil in the eucalyptus leaves fuels the fire so that it burns faster, thus sparing the trunks from combusting.
He also points out edible shoots, leaves and fruits from what, to the undiscerning eye, looks like a big patch of green. “These shoots taste like carrots,” he says encouragingly.
Maybe my taste buds are not meant to sample nature raw and unprocessed. Another berry I try is mostly just chewy in texture.
He says the cockroaches can be eaten as well because they feed on nectar instead of faeces. Good thing we do not see any running around.
Most people who come to the Blue Mountains make a beeline for the Three Sisters at Echo Point, a spectacular sandstone formation. According to an Aboriginal legend, a witch doctor turned three sisters into stone to protect them from harm but he died before he could reverse the spell.
But there are other vistas with curiously little human traffic. At Anvil Point,we are greeted by a lush and verdant view of the valley with the bonus that it is completely deserted.
If you prefer your nature in a more familiar theme park-like setting, Scenic World (www.scenicworld.com.au) is a good bet. The picturesque railway is on the world’s steepest rail incline while the cable-car ride over Jamison Valley affords a bird’s-eye view of the plunging Katoomba Falls.
There are reportedly discussions underway to build a roller-coaster ride which will hug the escarpment. It seems hard to square this with eco-protection but it does sound like a heck of a ride.
For a change of pace, mosey over to Leura Mall for some shopping for everything from beaded lamps to scented candles to all kinds of sugar rush at an old-fashioned candy store.
My favourite shop here is Cafe Josophan for its delicious homemade chocolates. Even wild cockatoos know to head here for the muffin crumbs.
After a fruitful day spent exploring and hiking, unwind at a private guesthouse such as the Silvermere (www.silvermere.com.au), originally built in 1923 and handsomely restored.
There are also various spa resorts catering to different tastes, from the five-star Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa (www.lilianfels.com.au) to the exotic Japanese bath house Blue Mountains Sparadise(http://www.japanesebathhouse.com.au/).
If you need to balance your fix of nature with the bright lights of a big city, it is comforting to know that Sydney is nearby. Even for those who have visited, this cosmopolitan metropolis still offers fresh things to discover with new restaurants and nightspots constantly sprouting up.
See the city from a different perspective, on a motorbike(www.bluethunderdownunder.com.au) with Steve White, your friendly leather-wearing, Harley- revving guide.Granted it is a little difficult to keep up with the guide’s running commentary when you are riding pillion but you do get personally chauffeured to little-known viewing spots which offer uncluttered views of the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
The monikers of these iconic structures might seem a little prosaic but then, what’s in a name right?

Getting there
Singapore Airlines, Qantas and British Airways fly direct to Sydney daily. The flight is about seven hours long.
The Blue Mountains are about an hour to 90 minutes away from Sydney by car. Another option is to travel by train from Sydney’s Central Railway Station. The journey can take from one to two hours, depending on your exact destination.

5 things to do
1 Do pack warm clothes, even when travelling in summer, as it can get chilly in the mountains.
2 Do bond with the locals. Stop by Glenbrook, the gateway to the Blue Mountains, to view wild kangaroos, kingfishers and cockatoos.
3 Do walk on top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It can be quite “educational”. Once, a guided group – the first of the day – found an abandoned shopping cart filled with beer cans at the bridge’s highest point. They never found out who hauled it up there.
4 Do tour the Sydney Opera House and learn about the challenges in realising the audacious vision for the dramatic structure. It was designed by Danish architect Jorn Utzon, who died in November last year. Forced to resign as chief architect before the project was completed, he never saw the finished building.
5 Do hop on a boat for a sail and see Sydney from the water. There is plenty to explore given that this is the world’s largest natural harbour with over 240km of shoreline.

2 don’ts
1 Don’t forget to pack comfortable walking shoes for the hikes.
2 Don’t miss out on the diverse dining options, from the casual cafes in the warren of streets behind Bondi Beach to the hip, big-name restaurants.
(ST)

K was well enough to head out. First stop talat sao (morning market), s sprawling ramshackle local market with rubbish strewn everywhere and vendors selling meat, vegetables, cooked food, provisions, vcds/dvds, electronics, fabric, everything but tamarind paste sweets.
Found the LP-type pouches here but the designs were not as nice and it was more expensive.
K headed off to the national museum and I took off for wat si muang to check out the city phallus (lak meuang). Still in active use, there were people presenting offerings, using divination sticks and still others sought protective strings tied around the wrist by a monk.
Then on to haw phakaew, former royal temple, 5K kip. There’s 2-tier pricing here, locals pay 2K kip. Not much in the sim beyond a collection of buddha statues with no explanatory notes.
Hide-from-heat stop at scandinavian bakery. Chocolate donut (7K kip) and mixed fruit shake (8K kip).
Went to samsenthai fried noodles for lunch. Had the special yellow fried noodles (14K kip) and ice coffee (6K kip). The noodles came with beef and veggies, tasty but oily. The coffee was ridiculously sweet. 15K kip tuk-tuk ride back to hotel.
US$5 for airport transfer and US$10 for international departure airport tax.

cause for K’s lack of appetite became apparent – food poisoning. Somehow I slept through it all and only woke up at 9 the next morning. Slept so much I even dreamt about work and landing a last-minute assignment. Ha!
Couldn’t figure out what it was that caused the upset stomach given that we’d been eating the same food. He thinks it was probably food that was not thoroughly cooked at malee lao.
The breakfast spread here is more limited. K couldn’t eat.
Set off for pha that luang, laos’ national symbol. 20K kip for the tuk-tuk, 5K kip for the entrance. K went back to the hotel after a while.
Decided to walk to patuxai, the lao version of the arc de triomphe. Passed by wat phonxai. No lonely planet entry but I liked the circle of buddha statues seated under the banyan tree.
Also came across newly-built brightly-painted ornate pavilions.
Cursing lack of shades and cap when I remembered that I was lugging around an umbrella. Ah, blessed shade!
It might be the dry cool season but the heat was scorching enough to burn one’s scalp. No wonder all the monks carry parasols.
Tickled by disdainful honesty of sign at patuxai, something about it being a monstrosity up close. Paid 3K kip to climb the structure.
The inside of the patuxai housed… souvenir shops. View from the top only showed how flat the skyline was. But I like the broad boulevards, lined mostly by 2-storey shophouses, and traffic has yet to reach the stage of a tangled snarl.
Walked to that dam (black stupa). It’s next to the US embassy so you can’t take pictures from certain angles.
Lunched at soukvimarn (http://www.laofoods.com/). Had lao-style dried wonton noodles (12K kip), complete with raw bean sprouts and lime wedges, and fish soup (20K kip), which was light and tangy and appetising. Had another mixed fruit shake (8K kip) as I hid from the fiercest of the heat.
Went to the lao national museum (10K kip). Unexpectedly informative, especially with the meeting of 2 cultures exhibit on the travels of dutch east india company trader gerard wusthof.
Timeline of the museum’s exhibits actually started with dinosaur fossils. Got interesting with prehistoric culture with helpful english translations. Section on laos under siamese rule left untranslated. Section on savage and barbaric french colonialists was.
Lost interest with the modern history and communism section.
Walked past wat mixai, bangkok-style sim with 2 nyak (guardian giants) flanking the gate.
Then wat ong teu mahawihan, I think. Namesake is a large 16th century bronze buddha at the back of the sim. A lao woman sought her fortune suing the divination sticks.
Ice coffee and éclair stop at café croissant d’or (17K kip). Pastry could be softer but the filling was quite generous.
Went back to hotel. K feeling better but still no appetite.
Went by T’s around 6.30. dropped by monument books and bought a copy of the dutch trader’s account of his visits published by white lotus (US$13) and a bracelet trinket (US$2).
After some to-ing and fro-ing between T and her friends, ended up at nang khambang for dinner. There was american Tr, taking photos of UXO victims and working with a prosthetics aid organization; american Sh, who’s been there the longest and is with UNICEF; aussie J, who’s headed back home after a year here; M and So, who works at the vientiane times covering education.
Dinner was good. Fish tom yum (less spicy compared to the thai version), chicken laap and fish laap, deep fried pork chop, deep fried quail (?), beef, sticky rice and raw veggies. Ate rice with right hand. Most excellent when dipped into condiment of freshly cut chillies and lime. Beer lao all round. Came to 40K kip a person.
Drinks after that at rooftop bar and restaurant. The dodgy one with hookers, T had previously proclaimed, and they were there all right.
Décor was cheesy, a rattan/bamboo weave covered the walls and ceiling. There were 2 pool tables and tables on which sat a 2-litre(?) container of beer.
The vodka lime came with actual lime juice, though the whole thing was watered down.
Conversation meandered into lao porn, which apparently exists.

leisurely breakfast at resort. The fried noodle with egg and peanuts was good.
Free transfer to airport at 9am. 40 min flight on lao airlines with its neon blue patterned seats. Served a bun with preserve and yummy tamarind paste sweets.
35K kip a person for taxi transfer to green park boutique hotel. Layout a little reminiscent of santi but bathroom much nicer. Free internet access a plus.
K decided to lounge by pool first so took off in search of lunch. Kua lao was closed so ended up at one of the fruit shake places across from asian pavilion hotel. Shake (6K kip) and satisfying toasted bread pockets filled with cheese, ham and pineapple (15K kip).
Oddly enough, prices here in the capital seem to be lower than in LP. Entrance to wat sisaket was merely 5K kip. Murals in the sim definitely in need of restoration though.
Bumped into K here and we went for a stroll along the river. he had a pancake with apple and honey but couldn’t eat much. Fruit shake no. 2 for me.
Met T, as arranged, at inter hotel and passed her her books and clothes.
Had drinks next to the river. The river bed was quite a sight as kids played soccer under the evening sun.
Fruit shake no. 3 and then on to dinner at french restaurant la terrasse. Shared carafe of red wine (65K kip) and had the onion soup (28K kip) which was not robust enough. The duck in cherry sauce (70K kip) was quite tasty but the meat was a little overdone.
T’s enjoying herself in laos and certainly taking the less travelled path by doing research on the mekong river commission.
She’s staying in a studio with a kitchenette (US$180/month) across from wat ong teu and is wary of novice monks and their amorous ways. Recounted her american friend’s experience with them, concluding that normal rules of behaviour with regard to monks (for women to keep a distance away etc) did not apply in that instance.

So we got up at 5am to catch the daily ritual of monks collecting alms. And you think, this is a place where rituals and traditions are still deeply rooted. It’s humbling to think you have to get up at 4 every morning just to get your sustenance for the day. And it’s a commitment on the part of the giver as well.
Is there a system of who gets to go where? Do the monks like the tourist stretch? Do they get more food now that it’s become a tourist attraction?
The procession of monks moves along at a surprisingly fast clip. Are they tired of the cameras popping flashes or are they just immune? After all, it’s the lot of a monk’s life in laos to be photographed.
Should I offer sticky rice even though I’m not a buddhist or do I intrude by taking pictures? Will go buy more souvenirs to expiate this nagging sense of guilt.
Had breakfast at santi hotel, a benefit of having the hotel and resort owned by the same person. Would be even nicer to get a day room.
It was cool enough at 6am for a zip-up and the mist lingered.
Walked down to the river front and took up deal to get to pak ou caves for 50K kip. All the way to there in a long shallow boat, clouds hung low on the landscape. Longest 1.5 hr journey cause bladder was bursting. Mercifully, a rest stop at ban xang hei (?) for local moonshine and hand-woven cloth.
Entrance to the caves cost 20K kip. The upper cave, tham phum, was dark, could hardly see anything even with a rented torch (5K kip). The lower caves tham ting were more promising but the undisputed highlight was the presence of a group of touring monks.
Lunch at saffron café – lao peanut chicken wrap (15K kip), cappuccino (17K kip) and banana bread to go (10K kip).
Went on trip to kuang si waterfalls (40K kip transport). Spent about half an hour on the minivan as it made more stops to pick up people until there were 10 in total. K had decided to go back to the resort to chill.
Reminiscent of hongxi waterfalls in guangxi. The surprise here was the colour of the water – a pale aquamarine, a lot more inviting than the mekong’s murky brown.
It may be the land of ten thousand elephants (万象) but have yet to spot any. Have glimpsed water buffalo, and at kuang si, moon bears and a tiger.
How do you improve a picture? Just add monk.
Took a pic for a group of monks, actually the same bunch from the caves in the morning, and started talking to one of them, phon. He’s becoming a monk for 7 days on the 1-year anniversary of his father’s death. He’s on holiday , showing the sights to a monk visiting from thailand(?). born in LP, he now lives and works in vientiane for the telco tigo. (the glossy hip young lifestyle telco ads seem miles away from the reality of people’s lives here.)
All men go through monkhood before marriage for at least 3-7 days.
See from the houses that quite a lot of folks still live very simply – wooden structures on stilts. Thatched with zinc roofs or dried leaves, the walls a cross hatch weave of dried leaves, with the occasional sighting of brick and concrete. As well as a rather incongruous huge-ass satellite dish outside one of these humble homes.
Between the high end option of l’elephant (french) and the low end option of street food (saw this alley offering skewers, roasted meats etc near the post office), we picked malee lao food on thanon phu vao.
Serves only bbq/steamboat combination and it made for a most satisfying meal. One order each of beef, chicken and fish. 30K kip a plate, includes egg, veg, vermicelli, black fungus, tomato. 1 bottle each of beer and water, total came to 106K kip. Most delicious broth, perhaps courtesy of msg. good whatever it was and the place was packed with locals and falang.
Took the tuk-tuk (20K kip) to the restaurant. Driver came back an hour later to take us back to the resort. Bargained to 40K kip but gave 50K kip because of the horribly bumpy last stretch of road to the resort.

K's alarm went off at 7.30 but no one stirred till past 9. quick breakfast at hotel in order to catch the 10am shuttle. santi's quote for 5.30 transport to observe monks collecting alms was US$3 a head.
went to LP or royal palace museum, 30K kip. thinking that the king and queen's bedrooms were awfully austere. more of the mosaics of japanese glass against the rich red background of the wall. including a depiction of what looked like a soldier capturing a horse spiderman-style by ejecting a net to nab the creature.
also took in wat souvanhnaphoumanom, notable for the gilded gold relief on the exteriors.
lunch at joma bakery cafe, a pleasant joint with unfinished concrete walls, green window frames and a red awning. melted sandwich on croissant (22K kip), cappuccino (13K kip), mango crumble (15K kip) with a scoop of chocolate ice-cream (6K kip). food's ok, perhaps a tad above average but a welcome change from local fare.
headed west of museum and away from mekong to the south, the so-called trading district. came across stretch of guest houses but lower end. almost walked past wat visoun with its watermelon stupa and wat aham with the 2 banyan trees.
K went off to get a red cross massage. went up phu si hill for views of LP and for that chomsi (stupa) on the summit.
had a crepe of pandan custard and banana (5K kip) and bottle of green tea with honey (5K kip). made on the spot, warm and lightly crisp.
crepe stand is at the front of a provision store which leads to the living/tv room of a home, with the kitchen and toilet beyond it.
met up with K at santi hotel. decided on pak huay mixai on ban choum khong pedestrian street for dinner. night market in the lane next to the restaurant proved to be most fruitful for souvenir shopping - richly-patterned brightly-coloured cloth, bags, pouches, cushion covers, paper umbrellas, lamp shades, coffee, tea, ethnic clothing, drawings. only 1 or 2 stalls selling fake watches and the like.
the lao people are not very confrontational so bargaining was not a pain. bought 6 pouches (the lady even threw in 2 coin pouches for free) and 2 bags of coffee powder (for the lovely bags they came in).
quite a few of the spots were manned by kids. also noticed that they would all sweep the money received from a sale around the other items still on display, for trading luck.
bumped into J and his friend R who had come up from Vientiane and Vang Vieng.
had dinner together. beer lao (light and easy to drink), LP salad (pleasant sweetish sauce), beef stew, deep fried fish with sweet sour peanut sauce (quite thai-like) and LP sausage (no big shakes). about 50K kip a person.

from the plane clouds in a lightly hazy sky hang over gridded fields of undulating green.
first time taking a budget flight and leaving from the budget terminal, which feels like a giant hangar. despite transiting through bangkok, had to go through the hassle of clearing inbound and outbound customs.
managed to get seats on the 0950 flight to luang prabang instead of the 1150 one we were on.
just enough time to wolf down pork porridge before rushing for the flight - which was delayed for an hour due to low visibility in LP.
US$5 a person to get to Villa Santi Resort, which was 5km away south of the town centre and serviced by a final stretch of unpaved bumpy road.
greeted with a refreshing lemon grass drink and happy with the traditionally, cleanly furnished room.
being away from town meant having to rely on the resort's shuttle service schedule.
lunch at goongkhum restaurant. 88K kip for two. (US$1 abt 10K kip.) tried the rice noodle soup with coconut milk with chicken. like a very mild laksa.
headed to national museum after that but it closed at 4 so will have to return. gold, gold, an abundance of gold glinting in the strong light.
definitely a laidback town. more bustling than siem reap circa 2003 with quite a few new hotels and guest houses, but bustling is probably the wrong word to associate with it.
walked along mekong river, an uninviting muddy brown. not one of more picturesque waterways around but a lifeline for landlocked laos.
came across what looked like a mobile disco with young and old grooving to the musical offerings of a young chap.
loo break at a hostel offering internet access at 100kip/min. made 2 moves on scrabulous.
made it to wat xieng thong with some gorgeous mosaic work and a rare reclining buddha that took some effort to locate.
lots of young monks around and at evening time, heard them chanting rather musically in the temples.
dinner at 3 nagas, top end for lao cuisine. 120K kip each. tried the khao kham, a local sweet red wine made from sticky rice.
had the river weed, freshly toasted and warm, jaew bawng (paste of chilli and dried buffalo skin). definitely has a kick while the skin tastes tendon-y.
stew of venison and vegetables (forgettable) and fish and pork wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. like satay, proclaims K. a more refined, tasty version i guess. and sticky rice, which was harder and less sticky than glutinous rice. still can't quite get a grip on lao cuisine.
took 9pm shuttle back to resort from villa santi hotel, which was located in the town centre itself. so ready to crash. lack of sleep and the constant travelling has led to sniffing and blocked airways.

first day of volunteer work. had to report by 9am. was assigned to cleaning crew - basically went around the private accomms (swedish homes) and cleaned floors and bathrooms. went out under cat and cleaned with H, T and M.
lunch was pitiful affair from kugen (neighbourhood supermart) - cling-wrapped bread with sorry-looking piece of lettuce and thinnest slice of ham (7 SEK).
dinner at volunteer's kitchen, only 40 SEK and better than yum yum - pork with cous cous and mashed potatoes and apple crumble for dessert. cook is E, from spain. had earlier met his sis I, from barcelona.
found to dismay that our 2-week housing was this place i'd delivered mattresses and pillows and comforters to. bare bones extension with unfinished chipboard floors and walls. kinda like a human trafficker's halfway house. with a large monitor lizard as a pet.
general accomms with its hostel style bunk beds looked more appealing.
reluctantly spent a night there on assurance they would look into it the next day.
did not sleep a wink. heard knocking at one point, thought it was from upstairs until J answered 'yes?' turned out another lodger had been locked out. then J's phone went off and i thought it was 7am but it was only 4.

bangkok airport
a shrine in the middle of the tarpaulinned terminal. the ramp down to the waiting area was just clogged.
happiness was getting bumped up to premium economy where meals were served in courses and seats reclined more. actually needed to stretch to reach seat pocket in front of me.
unusual that no visa form was required for sweden. passport control room was badly designed - too tiny and the lines were just a mess.
the foreign exchange guy in the baggage claim had migrated from singapore when he was 8.
received P's sms and bought a round-trip ticket to stockholm central bus station to meet her and J.
happily dumped the backpack in the locker and went for breakfast. coffee and raspberry muffin (40 SEK each) in a pleasant square with the nobel museum.
walked past royal palace enroute to vasmuseet - 1600s ship which sank on maiden voyage and salvaged in the 1950s, also peek into social life in the 17th century.
met up with D and Q around 2 after very good lunch of meatballs and iced tea (118 SEK).
had to take subway to bus stop to catch bus to hallstavik and then from there to herrang.
dinner at yum yum (95 SEK) of sausage with rice. only time we ate there.
first night accomms in a quaint little cottage ('for our daughters 19 and 17') with horses in the field next to us.