The spectacular landscape of the Nordic island of Iceland does not seem quite of this world. And that is why it has such a beguiling allure.
American astronauts trained there before walking on the moon as that was the closest they could get to a place that looks like an extra- terrestrial environment.
From fiery volcanic activity to blocks of ice floating serenely in a lagoon, Iceland has it all, thanks to its geographic location atop restless tectonic plates and just on the edge of the Arctic Circle.
And because it is relatively small, its sights are all easily accessible from the capital of Reykjavik.
The adventure starts when you land, as the Blue Lagoon geothermal pool (www.bluelagoon.com) is just 20 minutes away by bus from Keflavik Airport. Book ahead with operators such as Reykjavik Excursions (www.re.is) or Iceland Excursions (www.grayline.is), or sign up at the airport when you arrive.
Lounging in the warm mineral-rich, milky-blue waters with curative powers is the best way to relax after a long flight. Do plaster the white silicate mud on your face to get the most out of the soak. And when you are done, buses can take you straight to Reykjavik, a 50-minute ride away.
Instead of renting cars, my friends and I decided to base ourselves in the city and go on day trips instead.
Top attractions – Thingvellir rift valley, Geysir’s spouting pools and Gullfoss waterfall – are clustered together in a circuit tagged as the Golden Circle.
Most companies offer tours and we decided to go with Gateway To Iceland (www.gti.is) at the recommendation of the staff at the tourist information centre. Our guide was steeped in facts and even told a story about elves, gods and a kettle of gold though on comparing notes later, it seemed that everyone nodded off at some point.
The more ambitious day trip we made was to Vatnajokull, Europe’s largest glacier. It covers 8,100 sq km or over 8 per cent of the country. Vatnajokull National Park is south-east of Iceland, 330km from Reykjavik. We went with Glacier Guides (www.glacierguides.is) because it included both light hiking and a boat ride. The brochure also promised a “warm Icelandic waffle with cream and jam” at the end of the day.
Arriving at the Falljokull (“falling glacier”) section, we geared up with crampons (metal spikes strapped to the shoes) and were soon walking on the glacier itself.
It was an exhilarating experience trekking on 1,000-year-old ice and seeing melted water flowing freely just beneath the solid surface. It felt perfectly safe though our guides pointed out sinkholes and mentioned that one was about 50m to 60m deep.
The reward for our hike was a very special treat indeed. Perched over a rivulet with one’s weight supported by a pickaxe lodged into the ice – Chuck Norris-style, said the guides – I lapped up the purest and most refreshing water I have ever tasted.
There was more to this magical day when we entered the Jokulsarlon lagoon with its serenely floating icebergs in shades of blue and white.
The lagoon has frozen over only once – for James Bond. When they shot Die Another Day (2002) with Pierce Brosnan, the area was dammed up so that sea water could not flow in. The lagoon duly froze over and the film had its stunning chase scene in the bag.
And yes, there were waffles to end the excursion on a sweet note and they were perfect washed down with Vatnajokull beer, which is brewed from glacial water.
In between drinking in the sights, we explored the vibrant city of Reykjavik. Street art blossomed everywhere and you could hardly turn a corner without seeing something thoughtful (“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see”), witty (shimmery lava that seemed to flow down a wall) or beautiful (a giant mushroom made up of smaller colourful ones). There was also poetry stencilled onto the pavement.
And when you need a break, pop into one of the cafes or go to Eldur & Is for its yummy ice cream in a cone dipped in your choice of chocolate sauce.
Before the trip, friends had warned that the food “leaves something to be desired”. Either the culinary scene had improved markedly or they somehow missed the best of Icelandic cuisine.
For a light snack, try the hotdogs from the Baejarins Beztu Pylsur stand near the harbour (Tryggvagotu 1). Ask for fried onions to add some crunch and top it off with mustard, with its welcome note of caramel.
The Saegreifinn, or Sea Baron (saegreifinn.is), at the harbour serves excellent lobster soup. The humarsupa came with wonderfully tender chunks of lobster and was faintly reminiscent of laksa broth but without the spiciness, and it tasted as though the essence of the sea had been distilled into it.
At the other end of the dining scale was Dill Restaurant (dillrestaurant.is). Despite an over-liberal use of salt at times, the meal we had there was an exciting one with fresh shrimp, cod, mushrooms and skyr (Icelandic yogurt). We also saw the chef dashing out into the garden to grab a handful or two of herbs.
There were plenty of exotic dishes on offer, from smoked puffin to minke whale sashimi.
We tried hakarl, or rotted shark, which the waitress described as having the taste of strong cheese. It tasted like an animal that had drowned in a pool of urine. It was served cold and when a cube of it warmed up in the mouth from chewing, it released a jolt of pungent ammonia that threatened to overwhelm one’s senses. For some reason, the waitress said she does not eat it.
A quick word about the money situation here.
The Icelandic krona is the currency used and the exchange rate is about 100 krona to S$1. You can change a small amount of it at the airport but plastic is accepted everywhere. My smallest card purchase was for a doughnut which cost the equivalent of S$1.38.
The people there are also great about splitting bills and will happily do so even for large parties. To give a rough idea of how much it costs to eat out: A casual meal of a burger and a beverage at Geysir Bistro & Bar costs 2,760 kr (S$27). A five-course tasting menu plus a bottle of beer at Dill Restaurant cost 9,700 kr.
As for accommodation, the band of 15,000 to 30,000 kr for a standard double room is deemed mid-range by the website wikitravel.org. In other words, it is not very cheap. I found a cosy apartment on airbnb.com located just off the main shopping street of Laugavegur which could comfortably fit three. We paid about S$58 a night a person.
The only place I visited which did not take plastic was The Icelandic Phallological Museum. Its gift shop, by the way, has some fun and naughty souvenirs.
For friends and family with a less liberal sense of humour, get hand-made treats from chocolatier Haflidi Ragnarsson. Or pick up kitschy-cool items with characters such as Bubble the mushroom and Buddha the rock star from the magical world of Tulipop (tulipop.com) by Icelandic illustrator Signy Kolbeinsdottir.
An Icelandic sense of humour is apparent from souvenirs such as message T-shirts (“If you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes”) and offbeat items such as canned air (“For best effect, use outside of Iceland”).
Then again, you probably need a cheery outlook to get you through the long dark winter. Visiting in summer meant re-calibrating one’s idea of the season since temperatures can drop to as low as 10 degrees.
Forbidding as it may seem, we are already looking forward to going to Iceland in the winter. The Aurora Borealis blazing across the night skies has to be the most spectacular light show on earth – or even beyond.
(ST)