cordoba

bus #3 to estacion de autobus. long lines for tix, good thing had bought earlier. monitors showing departure/arrivals not working, annoying.
spanish version of miss congeniality on the bus ride, followed by music. grimly determined to keep people ‘entertained.’
took cab to romero barros. tried hostal maestre first (2 star pensione), 1 double room for €32. possible. nothing at hostal los arcos. tried hotel mastre, pleasantly surprised to get room for €20. first time with tv and separate en suite toilet and shower. very happy.
made way to mezquita (‘grandest and most beautiful mosque ever constructed by the moors in spain) as it would be closed tomorrow. gorgeous columned, horseshoe-arched interior. surviving mihrab was richly exquisite. ironic it is now a cathedral which people flock to for its moorish roots. wish the building had survived in its entirety.
meson san basilio (RG) for lunch. menu for €9.01. the local wine montilla-moniles quite good. salmorejo was like eating (hardboiled) eggs and jamon in a creamy sauce. lomo (pork loin) was nicely done and tender.
wandered about the juderia, old jewish quarter, primarily to check out the synagogue, which, as promised, was tiny. at least they’re not charging for entry.
decided to walk down main streets. place eerily quiet and deserted. was everyone out of town? shops mostly closed but found a springfield that was open. alas, nada to buy. found el corte ingles, which was also open. got battery for camera. meagre if eclectic selection for dvds. back to hotel to rest before heading out for el pisto.
too tired to move. eventually decided to try RG recommendation cheap halal eatery nearby and turn in early. couldn’t find place. took a while as the road was closed. no longer selling had, had arabic coffee though. ended up at restaurant jaular. worst rip-off meal thus far. plato combinado of plain omelette, calamares and salad (lettuce and carrot strips) was €6.05. meal with drink was almost price of menu del dia at €7.85.
[in room 0, right next to the road.]