tossa de mar

didn't feel like i slept much. frequent rest stops didn't help either. bus to tossa de mar at €7.55 (at half that from Madrid to Toledo.) stop at lloret de mar not promising. hideously developed with discoteca hollywood, hotel casino... the faded flashiness like an aging showgirl past her prime. bus station at tossa not inspiring, foggy weather no help either. 2 groups of tourists though: a school group and a senior citizens group. found room at fonda lluna. not very cheap at €16 a head, only €1 cheaper than Madrid, but includes breakfast and private toilet. most of new town not open, signs of sprucing up for high season evident - white-washing, repairs, etc.
tossa's 12th century walls surrounding the villa vella were pleasant. gorgeous views of sea cliffs with seabirds circling. vegetation a curios mix of verdant desert (cacti!) and alpine (tiny flowers). after wandering in circles, chanced upon la piccola carla, a pizzeria with a good value of €8.11 menu del dia. had blanched green beans, pizza jamon and flan. vino tinto inclusive. charming, cheery place with patient waitress.
siesta’d. after brief appearance in the morning, sun was out again. even fewer places open for dinner. restaurant minerva met the criterion. had fish soup, shared sangria. former quite strong. came to €10 a head. only place open on the waterfront; positively bustling with 6 tables by the time we left. beach practically deserted, footprints of seabirds abound. old walls lit up at night. good detour to make on the whole.