madrid

didn't sleep too well. woke up at about 5.30am. eventually got out of bed at 10.30am. breakfast at museo del jamon. no chocolate y churros. darn! had oj, coffee and small ham and bread for €1.80. set off for museo del prado after that. free entry once again but should have done this yesterday instead. too many things to see: velasquez (some familiar pieces), reubens, hieronymous bosch (his hell imagery predates dali, just as surreal), goya (prodigious output in range and quantity, later black paintings full of agony and despair.) explanatory booklets excellent at €1. unfortunately, dispensers for goya and velasquez spoilt. got one on titian.
LP nom maseira was packed so ended up at la plateira and museo bar for lunch. menu in english as well but food so-so and service brusque.
went to catch bull fight at las ventas. stadium was gorgeous, mudejar style? €6.75 for tix in the sun. 6 bulls, 3 not-yet matadors. interesting though outcome overdetermined with odds stacked against bull. blood and death not disturbing at all. got poster of event for €4.50, kept inside a cylindrical tube for €2. tapas for dinner, €7 a head. started with fried fish, croquette and beer at casa labra; then potatoes in hot sauce at las bravas and limon; finally gambas in olive oil with garlic and chilli at abuello II. excellent if salty.
checked out plaza mayor by night; boring and less resplendent.