roma was a decidedly more pleasant proposition this time. the pedestrianizing of streets in the centro storico made navigating the city on foot a heady experience, with historic sights at every turn and elegant and inviting shops lining the road. but already, the heat was beginning to prickle at mid-day and the human tide of tourists ready to swamp the city. only hazy memories of last trip here 12 years ago, except for the near bouts of being pickpocketed.
set off at about 10.30 am. there were a couple of things on the to-do list: the pantheon, trevi fountain, roman forum, colosseum. first things first: coffee, at sant’eustachio. www.santeustachioilcaffe.it the best coffee in italy? the cappuccino had a thick head of foam and no trace of bitterness, but it could have been stronger. what was truly excellent were the sweets. the bon-bons and coffee kisses were incredible.
had pizza at the capranica for lunch. paid 12.
and gelato at san crispino gelateria. the fruit sorbets were like chilled nectar for the gods. tried the apple, pear and pink grapefruit. most excellent. K went back for thirds, lost interest while standing in line but ended up getting another cup anyway.
as for the sights, the pantheon is just such a perfectly constructed building. so simple and yet so dramatic with the single shaft of sunlight piercing the interior.
the best thing about the trevi fountain is coming across it as one turns the corner and then feeling cool and refreshed by the marble statues and the spray from the fountain.
the roman forum was impressive but difficult to decipher without a good map. by the time we were done, it was too late to enter into the colosseum. not sure if we would have paid to go in given the hefty admission fee.
A and E had decided to take in st peter’s as well and came across a festival marking the failed attempt on the pope’s life. notable for the release of balloons against the backdrop of the basilica. they parked themselves at a wine bar in campo del fiori after that. gladly joined them for a drink before dinner and more importantly, so as to sit down somewhere. ate at ditirambo (Fodor’s recommendation). we had a reservation for 9.30 pm and saw people being seated for dinner past 11. had the acquacotta (thick vegetable soup, largely chickpeas, with vinegar drizzled over it) and a saffron rice timbale. found it rather disappointing. then again, the lethal combination of walking the entire day, lack of sleep the night before and gewürztraminer before dinner, made me shut down over dinner.