Tuesday, May 02, 2006

may day holiday. lots of places closed. the helpful lady at borgo’s information office had told us about this food scavenger hunt in dicomano, which involved hiking and tasting local delicacies. unfortunately, we got there too late (at 11) and found a largely empty lot with a tantalizing list of restaurants at which the early birds were probably stuffing themselves at. too bad. went for cappuccino instead. could finally order it since it was still technically morning. either that, or be given away as a tourist immediately. since we blended right in with our asian faces and casual clothing.


decided to head for san gimignano instead, ‘the most famous village in italy.’ reminiscent of toledo, but way more packed. lunch at il pino (RG). shared antipasti, 3 first and 3 second courses, plus a bottle each of white and red. total 172. had game pate with truffle sauce (which elevated the pate), deer carpaccio with cheddar and rucola, pappardelle (excellent pasta, sauce on salty side, best dish of the meal,) risotto with saffron and ravioli with scallop; roasted duck with truffles, lamb chops in crushed pistachios (both pretty good) and a bad dish, white fish, half encrusted in poppy seeds.


managed one site, the collegiata, plain façade contrasting with the thoroughly frescoed interior – benozzo gozzoli’s st sebastian, taddeo di bartolo’s last judgement, paradise and l’inferno (with lurid details of the punishments meted out for the seven deadly sins) and old (bartolo di fredi) and new testaments (‘startling immediate’ meeting of the eyes in ‘the kiss of judas’). also, domenico ghirlandaio’s st fina frescoes.
our interest in the torture museum fizzled out after that. also realized that there were at least 3(!) such museums in tiny san gimignano.
instead, more gelato at gelateria di piazza for ‘some of the best ice cream in tuscany.’ had saffron cream (unusual but tasty, saffron taste was very light) and orange chocolate (so-so).
not enough time to cover sant’agostino, the ‘most important church in san gimignano.’
headed back to our villa for the bbq. A and W started the fire while i joined in the marinating team and plucked hair off chicken. despite the cold, still quite pleasant to sit at the stone table in the garden. A and W did a good job with the grilling and there were no upset stomachs. veal and chicken were good, ribs too charred, lamb skewers too gamey.