had earlier planned to cover arezzo and cortona in one day, with perugia, assisi and spello in another. rather too optimistic as it turned out. in the event, spello (not to say spoleto) proved to be just a little out of reach. headed for assisi first as the basilica was open through lunch. the approach was impressive with the village hanging in mid-air, nestled in a sea of green.
lunched at dal carro (LP), which was uncharacteristically disappointing. the english menu was blah and uninspiring. the recommended pasta in black truffle sauce was not bad, but the tiramisu was unexciting. the interior was like an abbey’s cafeteria. 13 each.
the upper and lower churches of the basilica di san francesco were breathtakingly frescoed and contrasted with the simple austere order st francis founded. the crypt was more in keeping with the franciscan spirit and the tomb, ‘rebuilt in the 1920s, honours francis’ desire for a humble burial.’ the place was full of groups of school kids and pilgrims (?) as this was the second most visited site of catholic pilgrimage after the vatican’s st peter’s.
headed back west to perugia with its interesting history of violence (RG). checked out the collegio del cambio, the frescoed hall of the town’s moneychangers (2,60). decided to go into the galleria nazionale dell’umbria (6,50) which featured the umbrian and sienese schools of art including umbrian big guns perugino and pinturicchio. hands-down best english write-ups thus far. unfortunately, the english museum guide was sold out. almost bought scala’s italian masters from the gothic to the renaissance, then realized it was one of three volumes.
tea at pasticceria sandri on corso vannucci, where ancient and modern perugia converged. had a chocolate pastry (2,60) and hot milk chocolate (2,40). good, but very sweet.
first choice of dinner venue (aladino by RG) was struck off when we found a different pizzeria at the same address. went to wine bartolo hosteria (LP) instead. the 3-course €18 set was pretty good value for money with beef carpaccio, pasta and beef stewed in red wine. had the zucchini pie with parmesan sauce and chickpea soup (again on the salty side). the place was small (about 9 tables) but packed and everyone seemed to know this server/owner? the service was very slow though. we left at 10.30 pm to face a windy and cold corso vannucci. not quite as hopping as i thought it would be. we took the escalators, which coolly emerged into a medieval building at one point, back to the parking area.
reached the house past midnight to find it freezing with neither heat nor hot water. woke up in the middle of the night to pile on more clothing/another blanket for warmth.